Question:

I live in Florida(Tampa) and will be doing most of my triathlons in the area.  This means most of the time the water will be relatively warm.  I’m stuck between getting a wetsuit with half leg or full leg.  I’m not an especially strong swimmer and was wondering, will the full leg make that much difference?  And if so, will it make enough difference to offset the extra heat it will cause?  Thanks.

I don’t think half leg versus full leg makes that big a difference in heat generation.  It’s arms versus no arms where it is a big deal, enough such that many californians still opt for the open shoulders, despite temps into the 50s.   It will take slightly longer to remove a full length suit, but you probably gain more time with the better trim anyway. — Jason O’Rourke www.jor.com

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I live in Florida(Tampa) and will be doing most of my triathlons in the area.  This means most of the time the water will be relatively warm. I’m stuck between getting a wetsuit with half leg or full leg.  I’m not an especially strong swimmer and was wondering, will the full leg make that much difference?  And if so, will it make enough difference to offset the extra heat it will cause?  Thanks. Digger Mine is full leg (I live in NW Florida), and I’ve been told you get better lift on the legs, which is of special benefit to novice swimmers, who tend to hold their head too high and let their legs ride too low in the water. Keep in mind that you won’t be allowed to wear a wetsuit once the water temp gets above 78F. Tom Henderson Thanks Tom.  That’s what I was thinking, since I tend to swim almost upright. As far as the temp goes, can’t I use a wetsuit up to 84 degrees if I don’t plan on placing? Digger

I believe that is true, and then you would have to worry about overheating. I’d go with a sleeveless "long john" style suit, at least you arms will be exposed, and they’re what’s generating the heat.

Response:

I live in Florida(Tampa) and will be doing most of my triathlons in the area.  This means most of the time the water will be relatively warm.  I’m stuck between getting a wetsuit with half leg or full leg.  I’m not an especially strong swimmer and was wondering, will the full leg make that much difference?  And if so, will it make enough difference to offset the extra heat it will cause?  Thanks. Digger

Well, Digger, the question you posed is a bit more complex than you problably think.  Half leg vs. Full leg…Full leg gives you more bouancy (i.e., a more level swim)and allows you swim with less effort.  On the other hand, the calf length cut is easier to get off.  As for the Half-Leg, I can not think of any advantage during a triathlon swim.  Even when you take into consideration heat generation, the short legged wet suit will not give you any sort of an advantage. Beside, if the water temp is that warm…you wouldn’t want to wear a wetsuit at all (assuming your even allowed to wear a wetsuit).  Since most heat generation is produced in the torso, you might consider a neoprene short (only)-it’s easy to get off, provides some bouancy and won’t be a cause dehydration because from heat.  The only kind of triathlon that a neoprene short (not a wetsuit) I would recomend it’s use is a super sprint length type triathlon. Finally and most importantly, I think the kind of wetsuit you should choose is much more dependent on the TYPE of triathlon you will be doing and NOT so much WHERE you will be doing the triathlon. FYI Joe Moya note: As for sleeve vs. sleeveless (which i think is a MUCH more important issue than leg length), please read below. NOTE: Post is long, but includes a lot of details/my experiences regarding wetsuits (Specal note: Since I wrote the post below, I tried on the T1 – but, no swimming experience.  I can say that the fit is very confortable.) Part I FWIW, here is what I posted regarding this issue some time ago: I think wetsuits fall into two general categories: Traditional & New Generation Traditional wetsuits are of two basic styles: Full length-sleeveless and full length-with arms (as for a third style, sleeveless and short-legged, one word – virtually useless except for a super sprint – maybe).  The key advantages for the Sleeveless is that is gives a freedom of arm movement that mimics pool swimming and is faster to remove.  The key advantage of the full-length wetsuit is added bouncy (i.e., added speed with less effort). I have used both styles – full and sleeveless (for over 15yrs.)  I like the swim-feel of the sleeveless wetsuit.  I also like the ease of removal.  Therefore, I like the sleeveless for sprint distances. However, for I.D. distances or longer…I tolerate the Full w/ sleeves.  In comparison, I have decided there is no one wetsuit in the Traditional Category that is "perfect" for all triathlons. New Generation wetsuits are of two radical styles: 1) The super sprint distance (incl. F-1 sprints) to I.D. distance wetsuit of choice is the Piel Wetsuit.  This thing is off before you can exit the water! I have found it takes less than 6 seconds to remove while on the run – Unbelievable. As for its limitations – the zipper design make the legs seem a bit stiff and leaks a bit more than most. And like all wetsuits with arms, it does not have the best swim-feel. It shortens your stroke and adds stress to your shoulders (also, a by-product of the added zipper’s inelasticity). 2) The I.D. distance to I. M. the T1 wetsuit by DeSoto (note: both are acceptable for I.D. distance) is most likely the most comfortable. You might have noticed I said, "most likely" since I haven’t used this wetsuit.  However, It may become my next season’s wetsuit of choice for triathlons where comfort takes priority over T1 transition times – such as, 1/2 I. M. to I.M (I.D.-maybe).  From what I have heard, its key advantages are its confortable swim-feel and buoyancy. Forget speed or ease of removing when comparing it to the Piel (** see below – for removal comments regarding T1).  If the wetsuit had came out earlier in the season, I would have tried it out. Instead, I opted to experience the Piel wetsuit. If you’re looking for a perfect wetsuit for all triathlons…well, that’s a tough one.  I can’t give any one suit in any category an overwhelming multi-use advantage.  However, If you twist my arm – the new generation wetsuit types could best fit the bill for all. However, you would need to learn how to adapt your swimming technique and/or T1 transition methodology when using the Piel or the T1 by DeSoto*. As for wear and quality, I’ve had wetsuits last for 10+yrs. and have had them tear on on the first fit. The ultimate life of wetsuit is determined by how well it’s protected in the transition area. Well, that’s my take on wetsuit choices…FWIW.  Joe "geez, I love to buy these tri-toys" Moya *Disclaimer:  Don’t have any reason to advocate one product over another – Just the facts as I see them. Part II ** – Notes on T1 removal: Let me start out by saying the products I have used by DeSoto are – VERY good! For myself, I have some reservations about the T1 wet suits. The problems seem to fall in two categories – Removal and Vision (I’ll explain the "VISION" problem later in this post). With regard to removal, I have come to the conclusion that Wetsuits are in two distinct categories – Fast/Easy or Slow/Difficult. The fast and easy category seems to have zippers. And, the wetsuit with more, longer or sophisticated zippers are the easiest to remove. Unfortunately, (unless they are sleeveless and/or have calve length legs)they tend to be restrictive (i.e., high necks, ankle length) and pretty much uncomfortable for longer swims. Not to mention, they force you change your stroke length (as has been noted by DeSoto’s). Many of these issues seem to be tackled by the DeSoto T1. Unfortunately, the ease of removal can be considered a relative concept. To borrow a quote from a testimonial,- "Found when I just grabbed the hem of the top crossarmed I bunched the fabric in the back & couldn’t pull past the lump. Worked better when I first folded up 4in or so of the hem, to reduce bunching. Then I found something that worked better for me: pulled some of the L hem over my L elbow & used the strength of my deltoid to get the removal started; came off easier. You might want to have some others experiment with these or alternative ways to get past the strength problem some old athletes (I’m 65) & some women might experience." O.K., I’ve been a triathlete (17+ yr.) and use to many a discomfort, but to use the deltoid muscle to get the top off? The last thing I find easy to do is use your neck muscles, arms and deltoids to remove a top. After a long open water swim, I find the neck and shoulder muscles to be the MOST fatigued. So, from that perspective, a zipper could certainly be handy. In that sense, a zippered, sleeveless and calve length wet suit would make more sense for a sprint. It would have the best of "most" attributes needed for such a SHORT swim- 1) ease of removal (both from the leg and upper body standpoint) & 2) allows you to suffer the least from restrictive (ie.,neck rashes, tight chest/hindered breathing). And, the trade off seems to be loss of some bouyancy. On other hand, A T1 for a half-Ironman (and maybe a really tough I.D.) or longer may pay off from a comfort, stroke efficiency and buoyancy standpoint. In essence, transitions become less relevant. If I follow through on this logic, I need to own 2 wetsuits; one for sprints (maybe I.D. also) & one for half-IM’s or longer (i.e.,"Piel" and/vs. "T1"). Where does the T1 lie? Now comes the biggest downfall (for me) regarding a T1 (and the reason why I have held back buying one), I need corrected vision…I wear glasses. I have been down the "contact" road and it didn’t work. So, Now I have the perfect combo. I wear prescription goggles and sunglasses. Common sense tells me that you need to remove the goggles first. If I do that as I exit the water, HOW CAN I FIND MY BIKE? This is what I called earlier the Vision Problems. Nuf’ said,   FYI – Joe Moya

Response:

I live in Florida(Tampa) and will be doing most of my triathlons in the area.  This means most of the time the water will be relatively warm.  I’m stuck between getting a wetsuit with half leg or full leg.  I’m not an especially strong swimmer and was wondering, will the full leg make that much difference?  And if so, will it make enough difference to offset the extra heat it will cause?  Thanks. Digger

Response:

I live in Florida(Tampa) and will be doing most of my triathlons in the area.  This means most of the time the water will be relatively warm.  I’m stuck between getting a wetsuit with half leg or full leg.  I’m not an especially strong swimmer and was wondering, will the full leg make that much difference?  And if so, will it make enough difference to offset the extra heat it will cause?  Thanks. Digger

Mine is full leg (I live in NW Florida), and I’ve been told you get better lift on the legs, which is of special benefit to novice swimmers, who tend to hold their head too high and let their legs ride too low in the water. Keep in mind that you won’t be allowed to wear a wetsuit once the water temp gets above 78F. Tom Henderson

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I live in Florida(Tampa) and will be doing most of my triathlons in the area.  This means most of the time the water will be relatively warm. I’m stuck between getting a wetsuit with half leg or full leg.  I’m not an especially strong swimmer and was wondering, will the full leg make that much difference?  And if so, will it make enough difference to offset the extra heat it will cause?  Thanks. Digger Mine is full leg (I live in NW Florida), and I’ve been told you get better lift on the legs, which is of special benefit to novice swimmers, who tend to hold their head too high and let their legs ride too low in the water. Keep in mind that you won’t be allowed to wear a wetsuit once the water temp gets above 78F. Tom Henderson

Thanks Tom.  That’s what I was thinking, since I tend to swim almost upright. As far as the temp goes, can’t I use a wetsuit up to 84 degrees if I don’t plan on placing? Digger

Response:

Sam – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I live in Florida(Tampa) and will be doing most of my triathlons in the area.  This means most of the time the water will be relatively warm.  I’m stuck between getting a wetsuit with half leg or full leg.  I’m not an especially strong swimmer and was wondering, will the full leg make that much difference?  And if so, will it make enough difference to offset the extra heat it will cause?  Thanks. Digger

Response:

Question:

Last Summer Triathlete Magazine (received it in July not sure of issue) had the Principia written up in their monthly "Bike of the Month" Column. Gave it a pretty good review but said it was mainly a bike best suited for the short to olympic distance races rathr than the longer events.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I love my kestrel 500, very comfortable, No matter what kind of bike it is, training for the distance will leave you ready for the run… I’m doing my first IM this year; IMCA. I’m also in for IMC in August. And have decided to get a ‘distance/course’ specific frame. I am very much a back-of the pack, poor-but willing, biker, ditto the run. So here’s my question, which frame/forks to go for that will leave me less than beaten up come the run? I ask this as I was, (being a loyal European;-0), thinking of a Principia T28, but my LBS distance biker said, it was a great bike, but really only if you too were a good biker, (and by extension runner,), as it would give you a fast, but less that limo ride. In his opinion, a Trek Hilo, might be a good choice for me. So, I’m a wondering, which frame to go for? Comfort vs. Speed, well probably comfort, but as it’s IMCA, then IMC should I also be thinking about weight and climbing ability? (The bike’s weight and climbing ability, not mine!) As for groupset, I’ve already got Campy Record on the old frame which I’ll switch, but any input on optimum old-man gearing for the bike would also be welcome. Thanks for listening, Mike in Scotland.

Response:

I’m doing my first IM this year; IMCA. I’m also in for IMC in August. And have decided to get a ‘distance/course’ specific frame. I am very much a back-of the pack, poor-but willing, biker, ditto the run. So here’s my question, which frame/forks to go for that will leave me less than beaten up come the run? I ask this as I was, (being a loyal European;-0), thinking of a Principia T28, but my LBS distance biker said, it was a great bike, but really only if you too were a good biker, (and by extension runner,), as it would give you a fast, but less that limo ride. In his opinion, a Trek Hilo, might be a good choice for me. So, I’m a wondering, which frame to go for? Comfort vs. Speed, well probably comfort, but as it’s IMCA, then IMC should I also be thinking about weight and climbing ability? (The bike’s weight and climbing ability, not mine!) As for groupset, I’ve already got Campy Record on the old frame which I’ll switch, but any input on optimum old-man gearing for the bike would also be welcome. Thanks for listening, Mike in Scotland.

Response:

I love my kestrel 500, very comfortable, No matter what kind of bike it is, training for the distance will leave you ready for the run…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m doing my first IM this year; IMCA. I’m also in for IMC in August. And have decided to get a ‘distance/course’ specific frame. I am very much a back-of the pack, poor-but willing, biker, ditto the run. So here’s my question, which frame/forks to go for that will leave me less than beaten up come the run? I ask this as I was, (being a loyal European;-0), thinking of a Principia T28, but my LBS distance biker said, it was a great bike, but really only if you too were a good biker, (and by extension runner,), as it would give you a fast, but less that limo ride. In his opinion, a Trek Hilo, might be a good choice for me. So, I’m a wondering, which frame to go for? Comfort vs. Speed, well probably comfort, but as it’s IMCA, then IMC should I also be thinking about weight and climbing ability? (The bike’s weight and climbing ability, not mine!) As for groupset, I’ve already got Campy Record on the old frame which I’ll switch, but any input on optimum old-man gearing for the bike would also be welcome. Thanks for listening, Mike in Scotland.

Response:

Hi Mike – My vote would be comfort everytime – even at the front of the pack.  I am only willing to be uncomfortable for 1/2IM and shorter. My preference is drops and STI shifting for Canada/Cali-type courses. I’m not a frame expert.  Go with the one that feels the most comfortable. Forget about weight.  Eat one less piece of toast in the morning.  Cheaper! Gearing – For first timers I would recommend 39/53 (up front) and 12-25 on the back.  Best to err on the side of caution.  It sucks to run out of gears in an IM. Good luck.  I’m racing IMC and watching Cali.  Say hi if you see the XTri cap. gordo

Response:

Last Summer Triathlete Magazine (received it in July not sure of issue) had the Principia written up in their monthly "Bike of the Month" Column. Gave it a pretty good review

When is the last time you read a bad review in "Triathlete" magazine? Bittenbender’s articles are more press releases than reviews. Regarding the original question, any bike should do fine as long as you don’t change the position between your racing and training positions. And I’m with Gordo on the weight thing – it really doesn’t matter.

Response:

Question:

Hi , Simon Lessing was till recently training with the British team  in South africa, He and his Team did the ITU points race at Midmar Dam , South Africa for report go to http://www.triathlon.worldsport.com/press/2000/midmar26_02.html – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – are these guys still competing and getting ready for the olympics ?

Response:

      Hi fellow cyclists/triathletes from around the world, we are a cycle shop based near Fremantle since 1984 (only 16km from Perth CBD) .       Visit our website before you arrive in Perth :       www.iinet.net.au/~ideal       Feel free to ask us questions relating to Perth & the surrounding areas, order equipment to pick up             during  your stay, organise some free guided training rides around Perth,even if you don’t speak great english! :       CZ:mluvime cesky a slovensky       D: wir sprechen deutsches wenig       FRA:nous parlons un peu fran

Question:

I saw a reveiw in the December Triathlete mag on the QR PR-7…a 700c Tri-style bike for Clydesdale/taller triathletes. jjm

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Why do you even consider getting 650c at your size? Well, I guess I didn’t realize there was a choice in the matter.  I’ve been looking at the QR Kilo which comes in a 59cm (largest) with 650C wheels.  The pricier models come in 61cm, but they don’t say if this one size comes with 700C, they just say the model comes with 650C.  So now I presume that I shouldn’t (based on my needs/wants and the advice of this NG) go with a QR, but rather, with some other manufacturer.  Are there any decent makes that come in big sizes (63cm+) with 700C wheels – specifically tri-bikes?  It seems that a lot are 650C front and rear…. Now I’m new to this, so obviously I haven’t seen everything.  I guess I was just thinking about trying to make my old road bike a little ‘more tri’…. Thanks, -MarkZ

Response:

NO, you can’t just change a fork. Don’t think of doing this as the bike design is not set for this. I am also 6′5". You need to ride a 700c bike with a properly fit frame. If you need help in picking a tri bike in 700c, just give me a call. Steve Steve’s Multisport  1.610.275.4010 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anyone use bikes anymore with two differet sized wheels? ie. 700C in the rear and say 650C on the front.  I was thinking about converting an old road bike, with a 650C fork/wheel and a different stem.  Is this a bad idea?  Would the head tube angle be affected too much? I’m afraid to get a bike with two 650C wheels because they seem too small.  I always have to buy the biggest frame available, and with 700C wheels the bikes (61-63cm) look like they have 650C ones.  A huge frame with even smaller wheels just doesn’t look/seem right.  Most frames are designed for the 55-58cm sizes, when you go to the extremes, there has to be some negative effect because of the geometry.  Small bikes are all wheels, and big ones are all frame.  Should I just stick with 700C wheel’d bikes?  Sometimes it sucks being 6′5"…. Thanks, -MarkZ

  steves.vcf

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Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anyone use bikes anymore with two differet sized wheels? ie. 700C in the rear and say 650C on the front. At that height, odds are that you can get low enough on a dual 700C bike. But, should you decide to try to make yours a "low pro" (as the English time trialists call such bikes), here are the major issues to consider: 1) Effect on head (and seat) tube angle and thus trail 2) while you can deal with the trail/steering issue by picking the right fork

How ’bout that?  Mark beat me two it.  I was going to ask this exact question (I’m a mere 6′4").  I know my best bet would be a dual 700c tri bike (QR PR7, Cervelo P2K and P3, Litespeed, Habanero to name a few). I’m going to buy a new bike (I currently have a 63cm 650c Cannondale R700) mostly to train with roadies and perhaps do some road races, but I’d like to use my new investment for my primary purpose — triathlons. I just want to avoid buying two new bikes. I’ve considered buying two frames and swapping components between the bikes (way too much overhead), just using the new road bike (as yet undecided) with a forward seatpost and a longer stem if necessary, or trying the fancy 650c front (which would also be a chore to swap back and forth).  I just hate to buy two bikes… I’m also wondering about crank length.  It seems odd that a crank length range of 5mm — less than a quarter of an inch, unless you go to Dura Ace or something special — can fit an inseam range of 8 or 9 inches (22cm).  I read this article http://www.nettally.com/palmk/crankset.html that proposes using a formula (inseam in inches * 5.48) to determine crank length.  This put me at about 200mm.  Being that I love things that are contrary to popular belief, although I’d never do something solely for that purpose, it seems reasonable that a formula such as this is appropriate in selecting crank length.  (This sort of ties into this discussion since putting a 650c wheel/fork on a 700c bike would lower the BB too much to use a crank like this.)  Any thoughts? One road bike I’m considering is the Giant TCR1.  I think that’s what LVL used in Hawaii, I don’t know if it was 700c/700c or 700c/650c.  It seems like a good amount of bike for not a whole lot of money (1 kg/2.2 lb frame, Ultegra group but they have that odd fitting system, retails for US$1600).  I believe the large size fits what would typically be 58-64cm.  Any thoughts on this bike? — Cheers, Doug Fuller IMLP-99 Before you buy.

Response:

Thanks for the advice.  I’ve learned a lot just reading that 650 vs. 700 revisted thread.  If I do this, it will be more just to see if I can do it than anything else.  It was my first road bike that is now a fixed gear.  I think the biggest problem with this bike is that the top tube is too short (57cm). It’s got a 72.5deg head tube angle, and according to my back-of-the- envelope calculations, the most it would increase is about 2.84deg.  This is assuming the fork geometry isn’t drastically changed (super flat crown).  This would bring the head/seat tube angles up to ~75/76 respectively, which I don’t think are really all that bad.  I don’t think I’d need a custom fork except for the fact that the steerer tube needs to be so long – the head tube is 16cm c-c.  I haven’t considered offset and trail yet. I don’t think the BB height would be too much of a problem since it’s already pretty high, and the cranks are 175.  This bike was such a screwed up machine – I can’t believe I bought it….. I think the biggest thing holding me back now is the top tube length.   I’ve got a 15 or a 16 stem on there now, and it’s still pretty cramped.   I’ll have to put on some aerobars and see if I can even get into a reasonable aero position before I go any further with this. -MarkZ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 1) Effect on head (and seat) tube angle and thus trail – as you recognized, going to a smaller front wheel will steepen the head tube angle by 2-3 degrees, depending on the wheelbase, fork blade length/crown height (they do differ), and actual tires sizes. Whether this reduces the trail to the point that the bike become unstable will depend on the offset or rake of the forks in question, as well as the initial head tube angle/trail. Others on this thread have claimed that it makes a bike dangerously unstable, but I think it is obvious that they haven’t done such a conversion (which I and hundreds of other people have – see comment about "low pros" above), nor have they apparently ridden bikes with widely varying amounts of trail (e.g, track bikes, tandems). It is true that you’d probably not want to put a 650C fork and front wheel on a criterium bike that had a 75 degree head tube angle,. OTOH, if your bike has a 73 (or better, 72) degree head tube angle and you put a 650C fork on it w/ only 3-3.5 cm of offset, you’ll end up with a trail that’s still somewhat on the long side (i.e., slow handling), at least as racing bikes go. 2) while you can deal with the trail/steering issue by picking the right fork (or having one made – a custom steel fork wouldn’t cost you any more than what most aftermarket carbon forks sell for), you won’t be able to do much about the 1/2-3/4 inch drop in bottom bracket height. Still, this is unlikely to be a major problem unless you run very long cranks (which, at 6′5", you might), and/or like to pedal through sharp turns (more common in criteriums than in TTs/tris). If you do decide to pursue this idea, I suggest making a scale drawing of your current bike with the 700C front wheel, and the calculating

Response:

Excellent reply Andy… couldn’t have said it better myself and probably would’ve said it only have as good. I have friends from Ottawa (whom you probably know) who have done this sort of thing. As you said you have to look at the geometry of the outcome of the changes to really consider how the bike will handle. I get great please out of reading intelligent articles on the newsgroup, but it still amazes how people still believe the simple half-truths about cycling.. such the blanket statements that oversize- alu. is always an ‘uncomfortable ride which I know Rick must loath, or in this particular thread, the comment indicating such a change would result in a dangerous handling bike (just paraphrasing there). That said, I wouldn’t recommend people doing such a change to their bikes unless they know what they are up to. Thankfully r.s.t can help, this time Andy beat me to it. At 6′2" I’ve played with dual 700c and 26"/700c setups for aerodynamics. I’ve had best luck with the dual 700c setup with a small headtube (all while keeping it UCI legal too!). I see no need for someone of that height to try dual wheel combinations. Cheers, Jason

Response:

Does anyone use bikes anymore with two differet sized wheels? ie. 700C in the rear and say 650C on the front.  I was thinking about converting an old road bike, with a 650C fork/wheel and a different stem.  Is this a bad idea?  Would the head tube angle be affected too much? I’m afraid to get a bike with two 650C wheels because they seem too small.  I always have to buy the biggest frame available, and with 700C wheels the bikes (61-63cm) look like they have 650C ones.  A huge frame with even smaller wheels just doesn’t look/seem right.  Most frames are designed for the 55-58cm sizes, when you go to the extremes, there has to be some negative effect because of the geometry.  Small bikes are all wheels, and big ones are all frame.  Should I just stick with 700C wheel’d bikes?  Sometimes it sucks being 6′5"….

This can be done to make your bike a bit more aggressive. The handling may be a little wierd, but it will work. Make sure you replace both the fork and the wheel. Rick "Andy Coggan, where are you?" Denney

Response:

Does anyone use bikes anymore with two differet sized wheels? ie. 700C in the rear and say 650C on the front.  I was thinking about converting an old road bike, with a 650C fork/wheel and a different stem.  Is this a bad idea?  Would the head tube angle be affected too much? I’m afraid to get a bike with two 650C wheels because they seem too small.  I always have to buy the biggest frame available, and with 700C wheels the bikes (61-63cm) look like they have 650C ones.  A huge frame with even smaller wheels just doesn’t look/seem right.  Most frames are designed for the 55-58cm sizes, when you go to the extremes, there has to be some negative effect because of the geometry.  Small bikes are all wheels, and big ones are all frame.  Should I just stick with 700C wheel’d bikes?  Sometimes it sucks being 6′5"….

At that height, odds are that you can get low enough on a dual 700C bike, which would be slightly more aerodynamic and would give you more options in terms of tires for training, being able to swap wheels between bikes, etc. But, should you decide to try to make your a "low pro" (as the English time trialists call such bikes), here are the major issues to consider: 1) Effect on head (and seat) tube angle and thus trail – as you recognized, going to a smaller front wheel will steepen the head tube angle by 2-3 degrees, depending on the wheelbase, fork blade length/crown height (they do differ), and actual tires sizes. Whether this reduces the trail to the point that the bike become unstable will depend on the offset or rake of the forks in question, as well as the initial head tube angle/trail. Others on this thread have claimed that it makes a bike dangerously unstable, but I think it is obvious that they haven’t done such a conversion (which I and hundreds of other people have – see comment about "low pros" above), nor have they apparently ridden bikes with widely varying amounts of trail (e.g, track bikes, tandems). It is true that you’d probably not want to put a 650C fork and front wheel on a criterium bike that had a 75 degree head tube angle,. OTOH, if your bike has a 73 (or better, 72) degree head tube angle and you put a 650C fork on it w/ only 3-3.5 cm of offset, you’ll end up with a trail that’s still somewhat on the long side (i.e., slow handling), at least as racing bikes go. 2) while you can deal with the trail/steering issue by picking the right fork (or having one made – a custom steel fork wouldn’t cost you any more than what most aftermarket carbon forks sell for), you won’t be able to do much about the 1/2-3/4 inch drop in bottom bracket height. Still, this is unlikely to be a major problem unless you run very long cranks (which, at 6′5", you might), and/or like to pedal through sharp turns (more common in criteriums than in TTs/tris). If you do decide to pursue this idea, I suggest making a scale drawing of your current bike with the 700C front wheel, and the calculating exactly what would happen to angles, trail, and bottom bracket height if you fitted a 650C front end. This paper exercise may save you some time, energy, and $$ in the long run. Andrew Coggan

Response:

MarkZ, Look’s like some identity crisis to me….. Why do you even consider getting 650c at your size? Coolness factor ? Come on, you mentioned that 650c wheels look ridiculous on a 63 cm frame ! Aerodynamics?  Summarized: There is no significant difference, if you are set up properly and do not care about 3 sec. in a 1h time trial (see the extensive discussion on this N.G.) I would not recommend to convert a 700c frame to a 650c front. Dangerously unstable ! trInIc (I wish I had your long legs !)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does anyone use bikes anymore with two differet sized wheels? ie. 700C in the rear and say 650C on the front.  I was thinking about converting an old road bike, with a 650C fork/wheel and a different stem.  Is this a bad idea?  Would the head tube angle be affected too much? I’m afraid to get a bike with two 650C wheels because they seem too small.  I always have to buy the biggest frame available, and with 700C wheels the bikes (61-63cm) look like they have 650C ones.  A huge frame with even smaller wheels just doesn’t look/seem right.  Most frames are designed for the 55-58cm sizes, when you go to the extremes, there has to be some negative effect because of the geometry.  Small bikes are all wheels, and big ones are all frame.  Should I just stick with 700C wheel’d bikes?  Sometimes it sucks being 6′5"…. Thanks, -MarkZ

Response:

Why do you even consider getting 650c at your size?

Well, I guess I didn’t realize there was a choice in the matter.  I’ve been looking at the QR Kilo which comes in a 59cm (largest) with 650C wheels.  The pricier models come in 61cm, but they don’t say if this one size comes with 700C, they just say the model comes with 650C.  So now I presume that I shouldn’t (based on my needs/wants and the advice of this NG) go with a QR, but rather, with some other manufacturer.  Are there any decent makes that come in big sizes (63cm+) with 700C wheels – specifically tri-bikes?  It seems that a lot are 650C front and rear…. Now I’m new to this, so obviously I haven’t seen everything.  I guess I was just thinking about trying to make my old road bike a little ‘more tri’…. Thanks, -MarkZ

Response:

Does anyone use bikes anymore with two differet sized wheels? ie. 700C in the rear and say 650C on the front.  I was thinking about converting an old road bike, with a 650C fork/wheel and a different stem.  Is this a bad idea?  Would the head tube angle be affected too much? I’m afraid to get a bike with two 650C wheels because they seem too small.  I always have to buy the biggest frame available, and with 700C wheels the bikes (61-63cm) look like they have 650C ones.  A huge frame with even smaller wheels just doesn’t look/seem right.  Most frames are designed for the 55-58cm sizes, when you go to the extremes, there has to be some negative effect because of the geometry.  Small bikes are all wheels, and big ones are all frame.  Should I just stick with 700C wheel’d bikes?  Sometimes it sucks being 6′5"…. Thanks, -MarkZ

Response:

Question:

Planning on first down in Clermont this summer, Sprint in July.  Any general advice would be appreciated.  I currently swim 3-4 nights per week after run, run 25+ miles per week (varies…3 to 7 miles per), bike 30 to 50 miles per week….. 25 this a.m. followed by 3 mile run and 10 mile time trial this pm followed with another 3 mile run.  To be honest I have no idea what I am doing…. just read these posts (and others) and try to prepare….. regardless, I’ll be there. Allen

Response:

You’re doing fine, Allen.   You should have a good training base to do a sprint triathlon.  If you’ve been reading recent posts to newbies you’ve probably seen all the tips.   Your first triathlon will be a drill to learn the motions. Get there early.  At least an hour – earlier if you have any registration stuff to take care of.  Take care of your bodily functions as soon as possible to avoid getting stuck in a bathroom line.   Organize your transition area with your bike stuff  separate from your run stuff so you can grab it and go without much thought.    Look at the transition area layout.  Find out where you come in from the swim, go out for the bike, come in from the bike, and leave for the run.  Visualize what you will do each time you enter or leave the transition area and how you will find your spot.  A dry run will help even if you just walk through it. Make sure you understand the course and the rules.  Most of the rules pertain to the bike leg.  Things like wearing a helmet, obeying traffic laws, riding to the right, staying out of the drafting zone of other compeitors, etc.  Be safe. Good luck to you – and send us a glowing race report when you’ve done it. Larry – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Planning on first down in Clermont this summer, Sprint in July.  Any general advice would be appreciated.  I currently swim 3-4 nights per week after run, run 25+ miles per week (varies…3 to 7 miles per), bike 30 to 50 miles per week….. 25 this a.m. followed by 3 mile run and 10 mile time trial this pm followed with another 3 mile run.  To be honest I have no idea what I am doing…. just read these posts (and others) and try to prepare….. regardless, I’ll be there. Allen

Response:

Make sure you understand the course and the rules.  Most of the rules pertain to the bike leg.  Things like wearing a helmet, obeying traffic laws, riding to the right, staying out of the drafting zone of other compeitors, etc.  Be safe. Good luck to you – and send us a glowing race report when you’ve done it.

Be sure to put your helmet on and strap it _before_ you even straddle your bike–they’ll DQ you if you straddle the bike first. Vanessa

Response:

Question:

Not possible? Maybe you can’t ride on the road but I’ve seen lots of people do it, including me.  Simply take one foot out of the pedals and pedal with the opposite leg.

I once had to one-leg it for about 25 miles in the Hill Country around Austin, TX. I broke one of those notoriously unreliable Dura-Ace AX cranks and had no other way of getting home (expect perhaps by hitching a ride). The funny thing was, I got into a little race with a couple of other riders, w/ me passing them on the uphills on FM 512, FM 2222, and Loop 360, but then falling behind as they spun past me on every descent. Man, was that one leg tired the next day! Andrew Coggan

Response:

mather callaghan  says… -you can hammer flat out more safely on a trainer than you can on the road. there aren’t any potholes or anything like that to hit when you’re gunning for 50km/h or something.  plus if you fall off your trainer it’s nothing more than a mouthfull of carpet,

Not to mention the embarrassment factor of having to explain the carpet rash on the side of your head. as opposed to a body cast.

AJ (Who agrees with all the previous comments on the subject) — If swimming is so good for the figure, explain whales Simon Haigh Illawarra Triathlon Club – Australia http://members.xoom.com/ajsimon/index.htm   <—- New web site      

Response:

-you can do drills on a trainer.  i remember triathlete mag. doing a thing on this with roch frey a while back.  one-legged drills and things like that just aren’t possible on the road but are still very beneficial. Not possible? Maybe you can’t ride on the road but I’ve seen lots of people

do it, including me.  Simply take one foot out of the pedals and pedal with the opposite leg.   JT

        Another alternative:  rollers.  Maintains some of the bike-handling skills and balance.         Dan T.

Response:

-you can do drills on a trainer.  i remember triathlete mag. doing a thing on this with roch frey a while back.  one-legged drills and things like that just aren’t possible on the road but are still very beneficial.

Not possible? Maybe you can’t ride on the road but I’ve seen lots of people do it, including me.  Simply take one foot out of the pedals and pedal with the opposite leg.   JT

Response:

Preciate the advice everyone. I’m thinking the best thing(safest) is to use the trainer in the core of the off season except maybe weekend group rides. then a couple of weeks before the first tri do completely road workouts to get the auxillary muscles back in gear. I lift too so that should keep those muscles from deteriorating too much. Thanks, Byron – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m thinking of purchasing a trainer to put under the back wheel (not rollers). How much better is it to actually ride than to use the trainer. The roads are starting to scare me a little and think it might be better to ride indoors except on race days. Thanks, Byron I just got back from doing Ironman New Zealand. After doing about 95% of the bike indoors on the Computrainer, then being asked to ride 112 miles in the race, brought up some interesting realizations: 1) The indoor trainer does work on maintaining your core fitness on the bike. I did the 112 miles in a tad less than 20MPH, which I feel is pretty respectable from a person doing his bike workouts indoors. 2) Despite the good news above I found my bike handling skills lacking. I’ve seen this for about a week every year when I switch from indoors to outdoors. Not being able to be comfortable on the bike during turns and such is pretty critical from my standpoint. It is very important to develop and re-develop these skills from a safety standpoint. 3) During the race, I found the subtle nuances of bike riding lacking as well. I had no climbing power for the hills, didn’t have much energy to surge past people who were just slightly slower than me on the course, etc. Although I could probably adjust my indoor program to handle these ineffeciences, I find that I can do these much more naturally in a outdoor setting then on a trainer. 4)Intangibles. After several months on the trainer I find myself yearning to go out again. I can’t see myself relying solely on the indoor trainer for months at a time. It’s boring! One reason I love to ride is to be outdoors. From a fitness standpoint, the trainer can be a great  offseason/winter tool, or a great way to compliment your outdoor riding during the racing season. But, after these observations I recommend not to use the trainer as the only method for riding. Hope this helps.                           |26      | IMC’96: 10:36:37          |   Fe   |   IMNZ, IMC ‘99 IMC’97: 10:42:53          |        |                  "THE BEST ELEMENT OF RACING"

Response:

i don’t have a trainer myself, but there are a few benefits that didn’t get mentioned that i feel i should throw out there for consideration.  first off i’ll say that i agree with everything said above — i just plain love cycling and all of the things associated (wind on your face, the sunshine, the scenery, the pavement zipping by) all goes out the window with a trainer.  BUT…. -on a trainer, you never get intersections, traffic, dogs, turns, etc.  it’s a pure quality workout.  it’s ideal for intervals or whatever else in which you need to go hard for a certain period and recover for a certain period regardless of what the road’s doing. -you can hammer flat out more safely on a trainer than you can on the road. there aren’t any potholes or anything like that to hit when you’re gunning for 50km/h or something.  plus if you fall off your trainer it’s nothing more than a mouthfull of carpet, as opposed to a body cast. -you can do drills on a trainer.  i remember triathlete mag. doing a thing on this with roch frey a while back.  one-legged drills and things like that just aren’t possible on the road but are still very beneficial. all this considered, i’d say that trainers are fine within their field — usefull for certain things.  in a perfect world, we’d be able to ride safely and enjoyably on the roads all the time, but living in canada i know what it’s like to be shut in several months each year.  so some times, a trainer’s not just the best choice, but the only choice. i’ll still take the road, though. my 2 cents, mike callaghan

Response:

I’m thinking of purchasing a trainer to put under the back wheel (not rollers). How much better is it to actually ride than to use the trainer. The roads are starting to scare me a little and think it might be better to ride indoors except on race days. Thanks, Byron

Response:

I’m thinking of purchasing a trainer to put under the back wheel (not rollers). How much better is it to actually ride than to use the trainer. The roads are starting to scare me a little and think it might be better to ride indoors except on race days. Thanks, Byron

I just got back from doing Ironman New Zealand. After doing about 95% of the bike indoors on the Computrainer, then being asked to ride 112 miles in the race, brought up some interesting realizations: 1) The indoor trainer does work on maintaining your core fitness on the bike. I did the 112 miles in a tad less than 20MPH, which I feel is pretty respectable from a person doing his bike workouts indoors. 2) Despite the good news above I found my bike handling skills lacking. I’ve seen this for about a week every year when I switch from indoors to outdoors. Not being able to be comfortable on the bike during turns and such is pretty critical from my standpoint. It is very important to develop and re-develop these skills from a safety standpoint. 3) During the race, I found the subtle nuances of bike riding lacking as well. I had no climbing power for the hills, didn’t have much energy to surge past people who were just slightly slower than me on the course, etc. Although I could probably adjust my indoor program to handle these ineffeciences, I find that I can do these much more naturally in a outdoor setting then on a trainer. 4)Intangibles. After several months on the trainer I find myself yearning to go out again. I can’t see myself relying solely on the indoor trainer for months at a time. It’s boring! One reason I love to ride is to be outdoors. From a fitness standpoint, the trainer can be a great  offseason/winter tool, or a great way to compliment your outdoor riding during the racing season. But, after these observations I recommend not to use the trainer as the only method for riding. Hope this helps.                           |26      | IMC’96: 10:36:37          |   Fe   |   IMNZ, IMC ‘99 IMC’97: 10:42:53          |        |                  "THE BEST ELEMENT OF RACING"

Response:

Pete, Interesting observations and I would concur in almost everyway. For years I was very much anti-trainer. In the winter I cross-country skiied and put the bike away for 3 – 4 months. Now, with less time to ski and less time to train over all, I have started to use the trainer more and more in the last two years. To be in top form, you need to put in the miles outdoors on the road. I have come to the conclusions that nothing can beat "real" cycling. However, the right kinds of indoor work-outs on stationary trainers can maintain a certain level of core or base fitness that will allow one to achieve a certain level of performance. Steve Fleck – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just got back from doing Ironman New Zealand. After doing about 95% of the bike indoors on the Computrainer, then being asked to ride 112 miles in the race, brought up some interesting realizations: 1) The indoor trainer does work on maintaining your core fitness on the bike. I did the 112 miles in a tad less than 20MPH, which I feel is pretty respectable from a person doing his bike workouts indoors. 2) Despite the good news above I found my bike handling skills lacking. I’ve seen this for about a week every year when I switch from indoors to outdoors. Not being able to be comfortable on the bike during turns and such is pretty critical from my standpoint. It is very important to develop and re-develop these skills from a safety standpoint. 3) During the race, I found the subtle nuances of bike riding lacking as well. I had no climbing power for the hills, didn’t have much energy to surge past people who were just slightly slower than me on the course, etc. Although I could probably adjust my indoor program to handle these ineffeciences, I find that I can do these much more naturally in a outdoor setting then on a trainer. 4)Intangibles. After several months on the trainer I find myself yearning to go out again. I can’t see myself relying solely on the indoor trainer for months at a time. It’s boring! One reason I love to ride is to be outdoors. From a fitness standpoint, the trainer can be a great  offseason/winter tool, or a great way to compliment your outdoor riding during the racing season. But, after these observations I recommend not to use the trainer as the only method for riding. Hope this helps.                           |26      | IMC’96: 10:36:37          |   Fe   |   IMNZ, IMC ‘99 IMC’97: 10:42:53          |        |                  "THE BEST ELEMENT OF RACING"

Response:

I agree with the points below. Sometime back I tried the 3D computrainer at an expo. Good workout, and I worked up a decent sweat. But it wasnt like -biking-. A running equivalent would be hiking with a heavy backpack. Towards the end of the session, the company rep jokingly said something to the effect of – there’s the finish line, sprint for it. I took him literally and that was the biggest comedown. You know! when you get up off the saddle, rock the bike and accelerate. No! Not the same thing. And the same with hills, down as well as up. There are definite benefits I am sure. I know I could do with some ability to sustain speed on the flats, and a trainer would probably help. But it isnt the same thing. Though… your (Byron) point about the roads being scary is quite right. Perhaps the biggest (only?) reason to get a trainer. Still, making it the exclusive bike training sounds unreasonable, especially if you intend to use aerobars. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m thinking of purchasing a trainer to put under the back wheel (not rollers). How much better is it to actually ride than to use the trainer. The roads are starting to scare me a little and think it might be better to ride indoors except on race days. Thanks, Byron <snip 3) During the race, I found the subtle nuances of bike riding lacking as well. I had no climbing power for the hills, didn’t have much energy to surge past people who were just slightly slower than me on the course, etc. Although I could probably adjust my indoor program to handle these ineffeciences, I find that I can do these much more naturally in a outdoor setting then on a trainer.

Response:

I just got back from doing Ironman New Zealand. After doing about 95% of the bike indoors on the Computrainer, then being asked to ride 112 miles in the race, brought up some interesting realizations: 1) The indoor trainer does work on maintaining your core fitness on the bike.

Agreed. 2) Despite the good news above I found my bike handling skills lacking. I’ve seen this for about a week every year when I switch from indoors to outdoors.

Agreed. One possibility would be to alternate trainer and roller workouts, although that means more $$ and equipment, and only partially address the problem. 3) During the race, I found the subtle nuances of bike riding lacking as well. I had no climbing power for the hills, didn’t have much energy to surge past people who were just slightly slower than me on the course, etc. Although I could probably adjust my indoor program to handle these ineffeciences, I find that I can do these much more naturally in a outdoor setting then on a trainer.

Again, I concur – with a trainer or ergometer you have to deliberately work on things that you are automatically forced to do when cycling outdoors. Riding a trainer for only an hour or so also doesn’t do much to condition all the ancillary muscles that are used during long races – I once jumped into a district road race championship (121 miles) with only about one hour a day of stationary bike training under my belt (and on a borrowed bike, since mine had been stolen about 6 months before). I was sufficiently fit that I almost stole the race, but boy, did I pay a price – my neck, hands, feet, back, etc., were killing me afterwards because I wasn’t used to riding a bike for 5-6 hours while wearing helmet, cycling shoes, etc. Of course, for those of us with time constraints that prevent outdoor cycling except on weekends and/or lengthy summer days, a trainer is about the only alternative…. Andrew Coggan

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Question:

Hi there,    I have no clue about triathlons but I’d like to try one in the    near future. And here’s the question : Can you use a mountain    bike or is there any rule that says it’s not allowed. Of course    you’d have a disadvantage if everybody else is using a racing    bike. But I wouldn’t have to get a new bike …    Sorry if that is a really dumb question. – werner

Response:

Hi there,    I have no clue about triathlons but I’d like to try one in the    near future. And here’s the question : Can you use a mountain    bike or is there any rule that says it’s not allowed. Of course    you’d have a disadvantage if everybody else is using a racing    bike. But I wouldn’t have to get a new bike …    Sorry if that is a really dumb question. – werner

Actually, I have done exactly ONE triathalon in my life — and it was a pretty short one.  BUT, I did it on a mountain bike!!!  I think that you have to do it on whatever you have to find out if you like it or not.  If yo uare concerned, talk to the people that run the race.  I was EXTREMELY NERVOUS doing my first tri on a MTB — I thought I would look stupid. Tomy surprise, however, about 1/4 to 1/2 of the field was on a MTB!!! I’ve got my second one in two weeks and I will ride my MTB for that one too — so what if I look dumb….I’ve caught the bug now!!!  If I only had                                 –The Catwoman     LAZLO’S CHINESE RELATIVITY AXIOM:   *   "No one will ever win the           No matter how great your        *    battle of the sexes.         triumphs, or how tragic your    *    There’s too much fraternizing               defeats, approximately one      *    with the enemy!"         billion Chinese couldn’t        *         care less.                      *               — Henry Kissinger

Response:

Question:

Here’s an after the fact academic question about the qualifying criteria for the USAT Nationals.  According to the web page you must qualify from "another event": Top 25% in age group at "non-championship sanctioned events" or Top 33.3% in age group at "regional championship event" The second criteria does not have the word sanctioned.  But then again this is just a "thumbnail" document. The San Diego International Triathlon (held 6/2/96)appears in the race calendar on the USAT Web page.  There’s a writeup on the race in the "road show" section of the page.  The race had what I had assumed was a self-designation of "Pacific Rim Championships".  But there was no requirement for a USAT license to participate in the race (I am a USAT member).  I do know that USAT (TriFed) licenses were required in the race when I did it in a relay some years ago (1991). I did not see any particular statement or logo in the SD Int’l literature indicating that it was USAT sanctioned (doesn’t mean it wasn’t there). Was it sanctioned?  Was it really a "championship"? The reason I ask is that in the preliminary results I saw on the web, I somehow finished 25th out of 85 identified M35-39 entries.  There were a number of finishers ahead of me (and behind me) with no age data, but not so many that it would preclude me just maybe ending up in the top 33% of my age group.  At the time it did not occur to me that this might mean I had qualified to race at Orange County.   So, was it a "championship" level qualifying race?  Was it a qualifying race at all?  Assuming my 30th percentile finish held up, could I have coughed up the late fee dough, and corrupted my distance training with a few hours of anaerobic self flagellation session in the championship nationals race?  Is this all revealed in the last issue of Triathlon Times which is buried somewhere in a pile of magazines in my house?  Does anybody care? (I know the answer to that one Wade Blomgren

Response:

So, was it a "championship" level qualifying race?  Was it a qualifying race at all?  Assuming my 30th percentile finish held up, could I have coughed up the late fee dough, and corrupted my distance training with a few hours of anaerobic self flagellation session in the championship nationals race?  

I suspect they would have gladly taken your $70, plus late fee. I doubt they did much research to make sure people did "qualify." Cesar "just barely made it into the race" Valverde

Response:

I suspect they would have gladly taken your $70, plus late fee. I doubt they did much research to make sure people did "qualify."

No need to suspect, Cesar, they didn’t check. Eric

Response:

Question:

An alternative is to take a bottle of rubbing alcohol and replace 3 tablespoons with vinegar. Apply several drops to each ear after swimming.

Response:

I use a solution of 1/3 vinegar and 2/3 ahcohol and put drops in my ears after swimming. The explanations is that your ear canal is supposed to be acidic in order to prevent infections. Well the clorine from a pool makes it alkaline and wet so bacteria grows and an infection occurs. The vinegar restores the acidity and the alcohol dries your ear so the solution prevents infections that way. Any doc may correct me if this is not rigth.

This is certainly the traditional method of prevention, but DO NOT put this in your ear if you already have a bad case of swimmer’s ear.  It wil BURN LIKE H___!!!  (spoken from a traumatic experience as a child) Marty Marty Miller (aka The Noodle) Proprietor of "The Triathlete’s Web" http://w3.one.net/~triweb/triweb.html

Response:

I use a solution of 1/3 vinegar and 2/3 ahcohol and put drops in my ears after swimming. The explanations is that your ear canal is supposed to be acidic in order to prevent infections. Well the clorine from a pool makes it alkaline and wet so bacteria grows and an infection occurs. The vinegar restores the acidity and the alcohol dries your ear so the solution prevents infections that way. Any doc may correct me if this is not rigth. Luis Vargas

Response:

 I have recently re-started my winter swimming program only to get dulled hearing episodes which I assume is a mild ear infection. Any tips, please? Tristan J. FIedler

Response:

 I have recently re-started my winter swimming program only to get

dulled hearing episodes which I assume is a mild ear infection. Any tips, please? Tristan J. FIedler

Have you tried ear plugs.  I religiously use "Macks", soft, waxy kind.  If I don’t, I immediately get ear aches. Heidi — Thanks Larry

Response:

 I have recently re-started my winter swimming program only to get dulled hearing episodes which I assume is a mild ear infection. Any tips, please?

What works for me is a bottle of 50% Isopropyl Alcohop and 50% Peroxide. I rince my ears with this after all swimming workouts (let it set in each ear for about 10 sec) and I have not had any problems with infections what so ever. WEB (Robert Webster) Waukegan, IL

Response:

I have recently re-started my winter swimming program only to get dulled hearing episodes which I assume is a mild ear infection. Any tips, please? Tristan J. FIedler

        Can you gimme more detail on your symptoms, please (discharge, pain,etc) Julio Neves ,MD Brazilian Tri-DOC Founder and Pope of the Erotic Witness Church

Response:

| |  I have recently re-started my winter swimming program only to get | dulled hearing episodes which I assume is a mild ear infection. Any tips, | please? | | What works for me is a bottle of 50% Isopropyl Alcohop and 50% Peroxide. | I rince my ears with this after all swimming workouts (let it set in each | ear for about 10 sec) and I have not had any problems with infections what | so ever. | | WEB | (Robert Webster) | Waukegan, IL I use a solution like Robert’s, only mine is 50% isopropyl alcohol and 50% vinegar.  I understand the alcohol helps the ear to dry out, and the vinegar makes the ear canal acidic, which limits the opportunity for bacterial growth.  Like Robert I have been doing this for a while (the last 18 months) with no infections at all.  Previously, I would get 2-3 per year. — Computer Scientist                                   Voice mail: 804-249-7347 CEBAF

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: Yep, it’s that time of year again. That blessed annual rite of receiving : Ye old fruitcake as a holiday gift. Since you can’t eat the darned : things, I’ve been pondering on whether they just might have other more : practical applications. [snip] Feel free to submit any other novel ideas. I feed them to hunters, who then die and hence do not mistake me for a white-tailed deer while I’m taking a dump in the woods.

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You can use them to put under your front wheel when using a windtrainer without front fork brackets. But I usually use my notebook PC for that… because….(don’t flame me pleeeeeease)..I like fruitcake! jo Redondo Beach, CA

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Yep, it’s that time of year again. That blessed annual rite of receiving Ye old fruitcake as a holiday gift. Since you can’t eat the darned things, I’ve been pondering on whether they just might have other more practical applications. [snip] Feel free to submit any other novel ideas.

I’ve found that they make an excellent lift for my front wheel when using my folding wind trainer. Christopher N. Baucom           When you come to a fork in the road, Gastonia, NC                    take it!     – Yogi Berra

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writes: Yo tri-geeks/net-nerds, Yep, it’s that time of year again. That blessed annual rite of receiving Ye old fruitcake as a holiday gift. Since you can’t eat the darned things, I’ve been pondering on whether they just might have other more practical applications. Specifically, incorporation into my tri-training regimen. Here are some of my ideas so far. Feel free to submit any other novel ideas.

Great thread….. 1) Replacement arm pads for aero-bars 2) Better than Spenco Bio-gel for any of it’s uses — seats, gloves, etc.. 3) One fruitcake = lifetime supply of instant, tire patches. Just slap a small compressed wedge on your flat, inflate and go. 4) Much better than the "Thigh Master" 5) Holds tools, screws, and nuts for you while you work on your bike. No more, "Where did I put that damn nut". With the "fruitcake organizer", it’s easy. (Free-associating and having fun.)

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Hmm, fruitcakes, eh? I have heard that fruitcakes are useful for… 1.  Custom orthotics – they mold to your feet and last several years;     plus if you bonk, you can eat ‘em.   2.  Custom bar grips for mountain bike handles – warm ‘em up and they     are as good as the expensive ones 3.  Convincing your competition that they are the latest in nutritionally     balanced, fat-burning, muscle building tri-geek energy foods.   Egg nog anybody… Rolf — Rolf "Ironman" Arands, Ph.D.|"The world is made for those who are                             |   – Sue Sarandon in BULL DURHAM

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: Yep, it’s that time of year again. That blessed annual rite of receiving : Ye old fruitcake as a holiday gift. Since you can’t eat the darned : things, I’ve been pondering on whether they just might have other more : practical applications. Specifically, incorporation into my tri-training : regimen. Here are some of my ideas so far. Feel free to submit any other : novel ideas. How about for riding indoors on the wind/mag trainer: 1) prop your front tire up to level your bike. 2) prop your foot on one so that you can do single leg spins. Janet

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Yo tri-geeks/net-nerds, Yep, it’s that time of year again. That blessed annual rite of receiving Ye old fruitcake as a holiday gift. Since you can’t eat the darned things, I’ve been pondering on whether they just might have other more practical applications. Specifically, incorporation into my tri-training regimen. Here are some of my ideas so far. Feel free to submit any other novel ideas.      1.) Lace up a pair and use them for training wheels. (Should          provide a nice compliant ride.) Should I use bladed or double          butted spokes?      2.) Slip one around each ankle and use them for leg weights on          those early pre-season LSD and hill-training runs.      3.) Slip one around each ankle and use them for pull buoys.          (Probably not that buoyant, but I’m sure their waterproof.)      4.) Strap a pair onto a sawed-off broom handle and use them for a          dumbell so I can get that buffed and cut look I’ve always          wanted. Well, let’s here your suggestions.  Jammin’ Jeff Parting Thought: Duff Beer — Breakfast of Champions ! Endorsed by that most venerable cultural icon (Homer "The Man" Simpson) * Webster’s defines  jammin’ as         *                                      * * Equivalent to `hammering’ in the      *                                      * * triathlon parlance with the exception *  Shut up and take the pain !         * * that  jammin’ is done whilst the      *  Taaaake the paaaiiinnn !!!          * * participant is singing, humming,      *  Sgt. Barnes (Tom Berenger), Platoon * * whistling, or yelling their           *                                      * * favorite Pearl Jam tunes.             *                                      *

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