Question:

I decided to take a quantum leap and purchase a new tri bike. I’ve been racing for three years now with a cannondale road bike and I am ready to move forward.  I am starting to do some research on my own but I would love suggestions!  I am a 5′3" female. I appreciate any responses!

Response:

Much of your decision making will certainly revolve around your budget.  I did some pretty extensive research on tri-bikes in the sub-$1500 range (street price, not MSRP) before I purchased a Cannondale Multisport 600. Below are what I believe to be the best five options in this budget range. I’ve estimated their suggested retail price and listed them in ascending order.  The good news for you is that the fall tends to be a great time to find a good deal because shops like to clear their inventory to make room for the new model year bikes. 1. Fuji Aloha ($1250):  http://www.fujibikes.com/html/main/frameset.htm 2. Quintana Roo Kilo ($1400):  http://www.rooworld.com/html/bikes/kilo.html 3. Cannondale Multisport 600 ($1500): http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/usa/model-1RM6.html 4. Cervelo One ($1600):  http://www.cervelo.com 5. Trek Hilo 1000 ($1700):  http://www.trekbikes.com A few tips about buying one of the above bikes: ++  Fit is the most imports factor.  Therefore, it is very important that you get a chance to ride these bikes.  Although you can certainly mail order some of these bikes, you would be better served setting up test rides next time you are in a major city.  For example, even though I ride a 58cm road bike, I ride a 54cm tri-bike (and I test rid some 55cm tri-bikes that felt to cramped; every brand is different). ++  Don’t forget to account for the cost of accessories in your budget.  If you don’t already own them, you will need to buy shoes and pedals (most tri-bikes do not come with pedals so that the rider can choose their preferred pedal type). ++  You can find better prices than the suggested retail prices I’ve listed above.  Get a copy of Triathlon Magazine and look at the mail-order ads. That will give you a good feel for "street price."  If you want to save some cash, you might consider buying last year’s model at a discount. Traditionally, October is a good time to buy a tri-bike because, like car dealers, bike dealers want to make room for the 2002 models. ++  If you’ve decided on a particular bike, you could also look for a used one.  There are two great sources for used bikes:  http://www.ebay.com and http://www.roadbikereview.com/market/bikes/ Let me know if I can be of further help. Best, Brian

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I decided to take a quantum leap and purchase a new tri bike. I’ve been racing for three years now with a cannondale road bike and I am ready to move forward.  I am starting to do some research on my own but I would love suggestions! I am a 5′3" female. I appreciate any responses!

Response:

Especially if you are getting "fit" dialed in, go for adjustability! I’m a comfort junkie so the softride beam bikes appealed.  An unforeseen advantage is there is great movement available of the seat forward and back as well as up and down.  Add an ergo type stem and I can ride high and back at beginning of season…then move to more aerodynamic position as season progresses and I dial in. Just a thought.

Response:

Question:

: : : And yes, the act of pedaling does serve to tighten the pedals.  And yes, : : they are threaded opposite of each other. : : I was mistaken earlier when I said that only the drive side tends to : loosten while pedaling.  I see that both tend to loosten, it is just that : in practice all the people that have had pedals back out happen to be the : right (drive) side.  Let me explain.  If there is friction enough to : freeze up the pedal spindle, what would happen during a pedal stroke? It : would tend to back out. : Unless I’m totally missing something, the exact opposite would happen; the : pedal would screw *in* (until it stopped, when the pedal would then rotate : with the crank and make it impossible to pedal). If the pedal/axle assembly actually froze, with a normal forward pedaling action the assembly definitely _would_ unscrew so in that respect Stephen is correct.  But absent some magical instantaneous internal welding of the whole assembly (ie, under normal use), the force from the pedal to the bearings rolls the bearings in one direction, and results in an _opposite_ friction on the threaded shaft itself, a tightening effect.  Which is exactly why the pedal axles are threaded the way they are (RHS right threaded, LHS left threaded).  And why some bottom bracket cups are threaded the way they are (eg. English) and why Italian and French BBs with right threaded fixed cups (on the right side of the bike) tend to unscrew with use contrary to initial intuition. There’s even a word for the reversing effect, I bet Jobst and Sheldon know the term…Rick might…I used to but have forgotten. …checking Sheldon’s site…I KNEW it would be there: "Precession" There you go – this whole thread (groan) can pretty well be concluded by reference to: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_p.html#pedal Wade

Response:

"Precession" There you go – this whole thread (groan) can pretty well be concluded by reference to: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_p.html#pedal

KILLJOY! John "Thanks for the reference…I was getting confused myself…LOL" "Ad astra per aspera" "A rough road leads to the stars"

Response:

I don’t know if this is what happened here, but I’ve had the spindle of a LOOK pedal unscrew from the body during the course of a ride.  It was tight before I left home. Fortunately, I could feel the "Q factor" widening while I rode and noticed what was going on before the pedal was completely off the spindle. If the problem was the crank, I have heard of many ranks failing catastrophically.  As a matter of fact, a friend’s Sampson Stratics snapped this Summer. And yes, the act of pedaling does serve to tighten the pedals.  And yes, they are threaded opposite of each other. Before you buy.

Response:

: And yes, the act of pedaling does serve to tighten the pedals.  And yes, : they are threaded opposite of each other. I was mistaken earlier when I said that only the drive side tends to loosten while pedaling.  I see that both tend to loosten, it is just that in practice all the people that have had pedals back out happen to be the right (drive) side.  Let me explain.  If there is friction enough to freeze up the pedal spindle, what would happen during a pedal stroke? It would tend to back out.  I have only seen a pedal start to back out during hard efforts and large torque (mostly with aftermarket cranks such as the DanEd pieces of garbage I tried).  This first off increases the frictional force (not the coefficient of friction, just the total force), second, it creates areas of differential loading and unloading on different parts of the pedal spindle (the threaded part). In a crappy design, bad material, or bad threads in a crank arm, this combines to help the pedal back out during pedaling.  I had it happen twice with DanEd cranks (before they broke…but thats another painful story) due to the fact that they only machine a billet and do nothing further to the aluminium.  It was a really poor design. After switching to shimano, never another problem.  I could be very wrong (al least my wife tends to think so), but I think that my thinking is valid. Stephen Judice

Response:

John, I think you’re confused on this one.  The motion that tightens one DOES loosen the other.  Now, if both cranks turned the same way, that would cause one to back out and one to tighten with a normal pedaling motion. However, if you look at your right crank, it turns clockwise.  If you look at your left crank, it turns counterclockwise. By making the threads different for the right and left pedal, you ensure that a forward pedaling motion will tend to turn the pedal INTO the crank for both right and left pedals.

Hhmm…..<much thought and steam prompting comments from co-workers Ooops! John "Can admit when he is wrong " "Ad astra per aspera" "A rough road leads to the stars"

Response:

I was thinking the same thing, but can’t see how anyone would suggest a suspension over a BROKEN part.  If the pedal was indeed installed properly, there is no way it worked its way loose.  If she was suspended unjustly, I’m sure she has the option of bringing forth the crank and pedal in question and proving that one (or both) of them are defective.

Was there a bike inspection required before the race?  The races I’ve been to with inspections have never checked the pedals, but if there was an inspection and the pedal slipped out of the crank, then I would have to put some of the blame on the inspection team. Dave Wiesenhahn                               IDA

Response:

Actually, since one pedal is right hand threaded, and the other is left hand threaded, they should both tend toward the same condition. I forget which since I can’t remember which is LHT, but I imagine they both are self tightening. -Stuart – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Actually this is incorrect.  The non-drive side tends toward tightening when pedaled where as the drive side tends toward loostening when pedaled. Go ahead, look at your bike.  Now imagine if there is friction or binding in the bearings.  This force will tend to do what I have just said. Now, that being said, it usually does not happen.  It does seem to happen more frequently on aftermarket cranks that are poorly designed or made.  I had it happen to me twice (causing crashes both times) due to trying to shed some weight with an aftermarket crank (DanEd who is now out of business because he made such crap for cyclists; but that is another story). Since switching to Shimano, it never happened again. Check those pedals! Stephen Judice

Before you buy.

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test

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: And yes, the act of pedaling does serve to tighten the pedals.  And yes, : they are threaded opposite of each other. I was mistaken earlier when I said that only the drive side tends to loosten while pedaling.  I see that both tend to loosten, it is just that in practice all the people that have had pedals back out happen to be the right (drive) side.  Let me explain.  If there is friction enough to freeze up the pedal spindle, what would happen during a pedal stroke? It would tend to back out.

Unless I’m totally missing something, the exact opposite would happen; the pedal would screw *in* (until it stopped, when the pedal would then rotate with the crank and make it impossible to pedal). Maybe the DanEd cranks you reference were threaded backwards? TriathRon

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : However, a pedal doesn’t just slip out of the crank.  After all, the very : action of pedaling moves the threads into the crank, itself.  Is there any : possible explanation for what happened?  Was the pedal intact, or did it : break? Actually this is incorrect.  The non-drive side tends toward tightening when pedaled where as the drive side tends toward loostening when pedaled. Go ahead, look at your bike.  Now imagine if there is friction or binding in the bearings.  This force will tend to do what I have just said. Huh? I don’t get it . . . the threads are such that if there were *no* bearings ie. the pedal was fixed, the act of pedaling would tighten the pedal and you wouldn’t be able to complete a stroke. I must be missing something . . .

No, you are correct. If the bearings on the "drive" side (Where a forward pedaling motion tightens it) froze, then you would not be able to pedal, the cleat would not turn. And why would the drive/non-drive have any effect? The motion is the same regardless.

The motion is the same, but the threads are reversed. Take a wrench and remove your pedals by turning the crank. One side you have to turn "forward" to remove the pedal, on the opposite side (mirror image type of thing), you have to turn the crank "backwards". John "Spatial relationships, ma man… " "Ad astra per aspera" "A rough road leads to the stars"

Response:

I’m missing something here.  Pedals come in sets, one left hand, and one right hand.  Pedals should tend to tighten when pedaled, not loosen.  The only way I can see a pedal unscrewing itself is if the pedal siezed on the spindle, in which case I’m sure she would have felt this before it actually loosened in the crank (unless the spindle was only hand tight). My guess is either the pedal came off the spindle, or some superlight/superweak spindles were used and one broke.   Rich

I was thinking the same thing, but can’t see how anyone would suggest a suspension over a BROKEN part.  If the pedal was indeed installed properly, there is no way it worked its way loose.  If she was suspended unjustly, I’m sure she has the option of bringing forth the crank and pedal in question and proving that one (or both) of them are defective. Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.cynetfl.com/habanero/ Home of the $695 ti frame

Response:

: However, a pedal doesn’t just slip out of the crank.  After all, the very : action of pedaling moves the threads into the crank, itself.  Is there any : possible explanation for what happened?  Was the pedal intact, or did it : break? Actually this is incorrect.  The non-drive side tends toward tightening when pedaled where as the drive side tends toward loostening when pedaled. Go ahead, look at your bike.

Sorry Stephen… look at your bike.  The threads are different based on which side the pedal is on.  In either case, the only motion that could possibly back the pedal out would be spinning the cranks backwards (and that’s still a stretch.)

Response:

right, that’s exactly my point; the pedaling motion should tighten the pedal. If they were threaded the same (ie interchangeably; you could put either pedal on either crank) *then* the drive/non-drive side thing would be important.

LOL…which is my point….since the threads are backwards in relation to each other (Which is why they are not interchangeable), the motion that tightens the one loosens the other. It really comes into focus if you take a wrench and loosen/tighten your pedals once. John "Ad astra per aspera" "A rough road leads to the stars"

Response:

right, that’s exactly my point; the pedaling motion should tighten the pedal. If they were threaded the same (ie interchangeably; you could put either pedal on either crank) *then* the drive/non-drive side thing would be important. LOL…which is my point….since the threads are backwards in relation to each other (Which is why they are not interchangeable), the motion that tightens the one loosens the other. It really comes into focus if you take a wrench and loosen/tighten your pedals once.

John, I think you’re confused on this one.  The motion that tightens one DOES loosen the other.  Now, if both cranks turned the same way, that would cause one to back out and one to tighten with a normal pedaling motion. However, if you look at your right crank, it turns clockwise.  If you look at your left crank, it turns counterclockwise. By making the threads different for the right and left pedal, you ensure that a forward pedaling motion will tend to turn the pedal INTO the crank for both right and left pedals.

Response:

The motion is the same, but the threads are reversed. Take a wrench and remove your pedals by turning the crank. One side you have to turn "forward" to remove the pedal, on the opposite side (mirror image type of thing), you have to turn the crank "backwards". John "Spatial relationships, ma man… " "Ad astra per aspera" "A rough road leads to the stars"

John, maybe I am not reading your post incorrectly but you remove both pedals by turning backward. One is a right hand thread and the other is left hand.   Not a mirror image. Ken

Response:

 I’m missing something here.  Pedals come in sets, one left hand, and one right hand.  Pedals should tend to tighten when pedaled, not loosen.  The only way I can see a pedal unscrewing itself is if the pedal siezed on the spindle, in which case I’m sure she would have felt this before it actually loosened in the crank (unless the spindle was only hand tight).  My guess is either the pedal came off the spindle, or some superlight/superweak spindles were used and one broke.   Rich * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : However, a pedal doesn’t just slip out of the crank.  After all, the very : action of pedaling moves the threads into the crank, itself.  Is there any : possible explanation for what happened?  Was the pedal intact, or did it : break? Actually this is incorrect.  The non-drive side tends toward tightening when pedaled where as the drive side tends toward loostening when pedaled. Go ahead, look at your bike.  Now imagine if there is friction or binding in the bearings.  This force will tend to do what I have just said. Huh? I don’t get it . . . the threads are such that if there were *no* bearings ie. the pedal was fixed, the act of pedaling would tighten the pedal and you wouldn’t be able to complete a stroke. I must be missing something . . . No, you are correct. If the bearings on the "drive" side (Where a forward pedaling motion tightens it) froze, then you would not be able to pedal, the cleat would not turn. And why would the drive/non-drive have any effect? The motion is the same regardless. The motion is the same, but the threads are reversed. Take a wrench and remove your pedals by turning the crank. One side you have to turn "forward" to remove the pedal, on the opposite side (mirror image type of thing), you have to turn the crank "backwards".

right, that’s exactly my point; the pedaling motion should tighten the pedal. If they were threaded the same (ie interchangeably; you could put either pedal on either crank) *then* the drive/non-drive side thing would be important. TriathRon ‘trying to stay out of spacey relationships’ Gilcreast

Response:

: However, a pedal doesn’t just slip out of the crank.  After all, the very : action of pedaling moves the threads into the crank, itself.  Is there any : possible explanation for what happened?  Was the pedal intact, or did it : break? Actually this is incorrect.  The non-drive side tends toward tightening when pedaled where as the drive side tends toward loostening when pedaled. Go ahead, look at your bike.  Now imagine if there is friction or binding in the bearings.  This force will tend to do what I have just said.

Huh? I don’t get it . . . the threads are such that if there were *no* bearings ie. the pedal was fixed, the act of pedaling would tighten the pedal and you wouldn’t be able to complete a stroke. I must be missing something . . . And why would the drive/non-drive have any effect? The motion is the same regardless. TriathRon ‘please to explen a secohnd tahm’ Gilcreast

Response:

I have met both Lauren and Karen at the National City Triathlon, and I doubt that two nicer people exist.  Best wishes for a speedy recovery for Karen. I hope Lauren was unhurt. However, a pedal doesn’t just slip out of the crank.  After all, the very action of pedaling moves the threads into the crank, itself.  Is there any possible explanation for what happened?  Was the pedal intact, or did it break?

Response:

Hope the others involved came out without serious injuries.. trinic

Response:

: However, a pedal doesn’t just slip out of the crank.  After all, the very : action of pedaling moves the threads into the crank, itself.  Is there any : possible explanation for what happened?  Was the pedal intact, or did it : break? Actually this is incorrect.  The non-drive side tends toward tightening when pedaled where as the drive side tends toward loostening when pedaled. Go ahead, look at your bike.  Now imagine if there is friction or binding in the bearings.  This force will tend to do what I have just said.  Now, that being said, it usually does not happen.  It does seem to happen more frequently on aftermarket cranks that are poorly designed or made.  I had it happen to me twice (causing crashes both times) due to trying to shed some weight with an aftermarket crank (DanEd who is now out of business because he made such crap for cyclists; but that is another story).  Since switching to Shimano, it never happened again. Check those pedals! Stephen Judice

Response:

Oh NOOOO!!!  Geez, I sure hope she recovers quickly.  Talk about a person who’s had more than her share of bad luck. By the way, she ran a great race at IMH.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – what a drag.   katherine williams digest reports that inside tri has a story on karen smyers breaking her collarbone in a bike crash at ixtapa tri in mexico. recovery time willl be 4-6 weeks.  any one interested should check out inside tri or subsribe to the triathlon digest at www.triathloncentral.com.  it’s a pretty interesting service. todd sandiego

Response:

apparently someone’s pedal fell off causing them and others to go down. this is the type of incident that shows why triathletes should not draft.  had this happened with the legal following incident, only the person whose pedal fell off would have been hurt.  in cycling you get suspended for infractions such as pedals falling off during competition. lets not tarnish our (triathletes) image of non-mechanical poor bike handlers any futher.

This is Todd Jensen here, and this is what happened according to my wife Lauren.  Karen, Lauren and Pam Birsinger were in a group about 2 minutes behind the 5 swim leaders.  The three of them had decided to make a break to drop the others in their attempt to bridge the gap. Shortly after that agreement, a South African woman took a strong pull which started to spread out the chase pack.  Lauren stood up to to follow and start the break.  Just as she stood up, her pedal somehow slipped out of the crank.  All she remembers is standing up and then suddenly being on the ground.  Unfortunately, Karen was next to her as this happened and also went down with some others.  Lauren feels awful about what occurred, but we cannot find anything that would have prevented this – so I feel the calls for suspensions are unjust. Her pedals were put on before the race, tightened with a pedal wrench, and given a test ride the previous day with no indications of any potential failure.  As for her bike handling skills, Lauren has done plenty of group riding with local USCF Cat 1/2 level riders (male) and her share of bike racing.  Not to mention all the skill practice she does on her own like cornering drills. Best wishes to Karen on a speedy recovery! Todd Jensen

Response:

what a drag.   katherine williams digest reports that inside tri has a story on karen smyers breaking her collarbone in a bike crash at ixtapa tri in mexico. recovery time willl be 4-6 weeks.  any one interested should check out inside tri or subsribe to the triathlon digest at www.triathloncentral.com.  it’s a pretty interesting service. todd sandiego

Response:

apparently someone’s pedal fell off causing them and others to go down. this is the type of incident that shows why triathletes should not draft.  had this happened with the legal following incident, only the person whose pedal fell off would have been hurt.  in cycling you get suspended for infractions such as pedals falling off during competition. lets not tarnish our (triathletes) image of non-mechanical poor bike handlers any futher. what a drag.   katherine williams digest reports that inside tri has a story on karen smyers breaking her collarbone in a bike crash at ixtapa tri in mexico. recovery time willl be 4-6 weeks.  any one interested should check out inside tri or subsribe to the triathlon digest at www.triathloncentral.com. it’s a pretty interesting service. todd sandiego

Before you buy.

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Question:

1999 HED Deep rear and CX front, same as new.  Ridden 5 times.  Come with TUFO tires.  Owned by triathlon shop owner in San Francisco, perfectly trued. $525 o.b.o. David Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

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Hey David: I need some aero 650c wheels NOW.  I am trying to get my pro license for next year and I only have a couple of sprint races left in the year to qualify. Get back to me ASAP bicycles.rec.marketplace

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Question:

Many thanks to everyone who responded to my dilemma.  Especially those of you who suggested I pursue a career in the fast food or janitorial industries.  I worked out a deal with my advisor to take the exam during summer quarter, so I will be at Wildflower after all.  Hope to see you all there, Gary McMurtrey Inland Inferno Triathlon Club http://members.aol.com/infernotri/home.htm

Response:

Many thanks to everyone who responded to my dilemma.  Especially those of you who suggested I pursue a career in the fast food or janitorial industries.  I worked out a deal with my advisor to take the exam during summer quarter, so I will be at Wildflower after all.  Hope to see you all there,

ALL RIGHT!!! Way to go!  Looking forward to seeing you and Princess Carla. — Tri-Baby                                      _                                   –    o      ’             –  __o       –    </_  `     ‘         –    <         – __/    /o_         – (()) (())        -  / "Real triathletes don’t draft." http://www.stanford.edu/~brooksie        

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Question:

Hi, We still make the same fanny pack that was mentioned in one of the replies to your question.  The De Soto Sport Fanny Pack is made of Supplex with a stong lightweight fully adjustable buckle.  It is only $14.00 and works great a a race belt.  I have used in many different distance races.  When I travel, I put my money in it and tuck it into my pants so that it is out of sight. The best deal of it is that if you buy it from us, we offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee. Emilio De Soto II Triathlete/President and Designer De Soto Sport Triathlon Clothing Email me for a free catalog

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I’ve been looking (without much success) for a fanny pack that allows me to carry 3 or 4 Clif Shots and an energy bar (enough for a marathon). I’ve found GU clip on carriers (too small) and strap on water bottle holders (too large, heavy and bulky). Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks, Frank

Response:

Frank: Check out the packs made by "Ultimate". They have a broad range of small to medium size fanny packs. Good Luck- Keith — Ironman Triathlon Wetsuits Website: www.ironmanwetsuits.com toll free order line: 800-897-6464 international calls: 804-288-6000 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve been looking (without much success) for a fanny pack that allows me to carry 3 or 4 Clif Shots and an energy bar (enough for a marathon). I’ve found GU clip on carriers (too small) and strap on water bottle holders (too large, heavy and bulky). Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks, Frank

Response:

De Soto made one a few years ago.  It was light and small,  just what you are looking for.  Maybe he still makes it. Ray Plotecia Male Amateur, 50-54 Ruxton, MD – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve been looking (without much success) for a fanny pack that allows me to carry 3 or 4 Clif Shots and an energy bar (enough for a marathon). I’ve found GU clip on carriers (too small) and strap on water bottle holders (too large, heavy and bulky). Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks, Frank

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Any thoughts or suggestions?

I’ll bet you could go to Wal-Mart and find a small one that would do just fine. Ken

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I’ve been looking (without much success) for a fanny pack that allows me to carry 3 or 4 Clif Shots and an energy bar (enough for a marathon). I’ve found GU clip on carriers (too small) and strap on water bottle holders (too large, heavy and bulky).

 I use a walkman carrier; it fits snugly against the small of your back, but not too snugly; it has a couple of pockets; usually one with a velcro enclosure; its widely available from consumer electronic stores and places like RoadRunner Sports.  On my training runs it easily fits 3 or 4 GU pacs and 2 balance bars; also my car key and an emergency $20.  I’m planning to use it again this year in the NY Marathon.  Last year I also packed a thin disposable camera.  Regards,

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check out the runing room product i have one of there pack’s and wont leave home without one www.runningroom.com andy proxy.airnews.net, I’ve been looking (without much success) for a fanny pack that allows me to carry 3 or 4 Clif Shots and an energy bar (enough for a marathon). I’ve found GU clip on carriers (too small) and strap on water bottle holders (too large, heavy and bulky). Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks, Frank

Response:

I’ve been looking (without much success) for a fanny pack that allows me to carry 3 or 4 Clif Shots and an energy bar (enough for a marathon). I’ve found GU clip on carriers (too small) and strap on water bottle holders (too large, heavy and bulky). Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks, Frank

If you aren’t carrying water (as in an organized race), look at the Race Ready Long Distance shorts (http://www.raceready.com/). They have a built-in set of pockets that exactly meet your requirements. Because the stuff you’re carrying is on the shorts, it doesn’t bounce around. I tried it for the Chicago marathon and was very pleased with how it worked out.

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I bought one last year made by Ultimate.  It came w/ a gel flask (has a pocket for it also) and has a small pocket that is large enough for a powerbar cut into half sections or several (4+) additional gel packets.  I has a nice web over padded belt, so it doesn’t chaffe too badly.  And you can put ur race number on it, and I even added an extra Gu flask container to it during the Ironman this weekend.  It worked great. t… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve been looking (without much success) for a fanny pack that allows me to carry 3 or 4 Clif Shots and an energy bar (enough for a marathon).

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In article I’ve been looking (without much success) for a fanny pack that allows me to carry 3 or 4 Clif Shots and an energy bar (enough for a marathon). I’ve found GU clip on carriers (too small) and strap on water bottle holders (too large, heavy and bulky). Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks, Frank

If you aren’t carrying water (as in an organized race), look at the Race Ready Long Distance shorts (

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Question:

A group of us switched from road bikes to tri(QR) bikes . Everyone loves the fit and say they have never felt as comfortable on a bike. We train long & short on these bikes. I save my road bike for the trainer.   QUESTION? does anyone use their racing bike on the trainer? How has it held up after a few years? Any frame problems?

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A group of us switched from road bikes to tri(QR) bikes . Everyone loves the fit and say they have never felt as comfortable on a bike. We train long & short on these bikes. I save my road bike for the trainer.   QUESTION? does anyone use their racing bike on the trainer? How has it held up after a few years? Any frame problems?

i do 1/2 my training in the summer and all in the winter on my blackburn trainer using my racing bike(a cannondale r900). the finish of the polished aluminum frame looks like hell after three years of this and i’ve been through many tires(i use old ones) but otherwise i’ve no problems.  i do use towels to keep sweat of the headset and front hub ect. and continuosly wipe myself off, i sweat 4 pounds an hour on my trainer!  i thought of using a old bike for all this but since i do so much training in this manner i don’t want to throw my body off with a different bike.  most people would consider all this work on a trainer insane, but i love the workout it gives me- my favorite is a weekly 5 1/2 ride on my trainer with a steady 75% HR, surrounded by water and food and my stereo.  i actually enjoy it and it has done wonders for my bike split, i’ve become a  strong cyclist. tim hignett buaidh no bas

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my favorite is a weekly 5 1/2 ride on my trainer tim hignett buaidh no bas

Is that 5 1/2 *HOURS*??? tim, you are a truly sick person — Slainte, Richard. Arran Triathlon Club – we got both kindsa wind, out *and* back!

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Question:

Does anyone have any comments on the sling shot bikes? I’m looking to replace my current "low end" bike. Thanks for all comments. John Moir, Toronto Canada

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Newsgroups: rec.sport.triathlon Organization: CME Communications Does anyone have any comments on the sling shot bikes? I’m looking to replace my current "low end" bike. Thanks for all comments. John Moir, Toronto Canada

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i have used one for a year, and several triathlons.  it’s a cool, head-turning bike. i’ve had no problems with it, though it’s skittish when you take your hands off the handlebars. it’s a good  climbing bike. i’m not disappointed by its performance. it’s the ultimate funny bike that really works. katovsky, publisher and editor-in-chief of Multisport

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Does anyone have any comments re: SlingShot ? I am also interested in purchasing their Tri-bike. Thanks …. mike muraski

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: Does anyone have any comments re: SlingShot ? I am also interested in : purchasing their Tri-bike. : Thanks …. : mike muraski  I’ve only seen one in real life. It happened to be a folding one and it looks way cool! They seem tiny. It happened to be under a really fast trihead with monster thighs. They are on my list of cool things to get when lotto comes my way.   TriDork

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Newsgroups: rec.sport.triathlon Does anyone have any comments re: SlingShot ? I am also interested in purchasing their Tri-bike. Thanks …. mike muraski

I didn’t get to ride their new tri-bike at Interbike but it is great looking. Definitely worth looking into based on conversation around the show. I have to say I’m impressed with what the company is doing. They have an interesting concept and are really working to get it refined and make it available. James Rodewald, online editor, Outside magazine http://www.starwave.com/outside

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Does anyone have any comments re: SlingShot ? I am also interested in purchasing their Tri-bike. Thanks …. mike muraski

The same, I ‘m interested in their bikes and any info is good.   Thanks Michel Somogyi Ottawa, Canada Michel Somogyi Carleton University

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Question:

Start out with the FAQ that has been recently posted on this newsgroup. Brian Sullivan

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If you can complete all the distances comfortably your base is probably okay.  Between now and September I would shoot for attempting to a speed/interval session, an over-distance session and a tempo session in each sport once a week or every other week.  The interval sessions should be done at a higher intensity than your planned race pace but short distance.(i.e. 400 meters on a track or 100 yds in pool)  The over-distance sessions should be done at a slower pace than your planned race pace but longer than race distance.(i.e. 35-40 mile bike rides at a easy pace or 8 mile run at a nice easy pace or 1.5 mile easy swim). The tempo session should be done at race distance but slightly below your planned race pace.(i.e. planned bike race pace 20mph, do 25 bike ride at 19mph).  The tempo bike ride could followed by a 6mile run at 9:00 min mile pace if your plannned run pace is 8:00 min. miles.  You will find doing each of these different pace work outs once a week(if possible in each sport will make your first Olympic distance tri comfortable.  Hope this helps.

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I’ll be entering my first triathlon (Olympic distance) on September 10. I’ve been training since the beginning of June from a base of ‘reasonable’ fitness gained from the gym and mountain biking. I can do the swim in around 28 mins but this is breaststroke. My freestyle won’t be up to good enough until next year – but I’m having lessons. At present my maximum run distance has been 6.5 miles in around 1 hour. The cycle takes around 1 hour 45 minutes. I’m trying to train for each event twice per week. I did a ‘dry run’ three weeks ago but developed a severe cold afterwards – did I overdo it? Has anyone got any suggestions for a programme as a build up to the event in September? How, when and what food and fluids should I be taking during the event? Please help, I’m keen but on my own. Mark

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Question:

: Our wetsuits are advertised as 4.5mm, but are actually 5.0mm Why do you advertise imprecisely?   Just wondering.

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<<Why do you advertise imprecisely?   Just wondering. It’s kind of a money thing.  We technically buy and pay for 4.5mm rubber from our rubber manufacturer that we use for this specific type of rubber.  We give him specs that we want, which happen to be 5mm.  He builds us the rubber to our specs.  It’s a weird business thing that has evolved over many years with this rubber supplier.  However, since the invoices say 4.5mm, we feel it only appropriate to put this on our catalogs. QRman

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<<Seriously, what is the density range of rubber used in wetsuits?  What <<kind of tradeoff is there between density/pliability and other important <<factors ? So long as the rubber is durable there is no downside to rubber which is lighter and more pliable.  It floats higher, it stretches more, and generally yields a wetsuit more comfortable for the given amount of rubber. We designate certain parts of our wetsuit "float panels", and most of the chest, upper torso, and legs are what we wish to float.  This rubber will be about 5mm thick in our suits, and will be made of rubber which has a specific gravity of .15, which means about one-sixth the density of water.  Standard neoprene has a specific gravity of about .20 to .25, which is from one-fifth to one-fourth the density of water.   QRman

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I was interested in buying a Richard Brown hammerhead wetsuit. As this is my first triathlon wetsuit do you think their is a big difference between a 4mm thick suit and a 5mm suit. Will I notice a signifigant difference ? Note I am of average swimming ability, i do tend to drag my legs somewhat though.                      Tired of freezing my unmentionables off . — Paul Yeung                                  

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<<I was interested in buying a Richard Brown hammerhead wetsuit. As this << <<is my first triathlon wetsuit do you think their is a big difference << <<between a 4mm thick suit and a 5mm suit. Will I notice a signifigant << <<difference ? Note I am of average swimming ability, i do tend to drag my << <<legs somewhat though. depends on what kind of rubber it is.  if it is light density rubber, it would be fine.  if regular density, it’ll be warm enough but not quite as fast.  we advertise ours as 4.5mm light density rubber in the areas where flotation is greatest, but ours is really 5mm.  5mm sections in the front of the suit will really float you if the rubber is light density, however, frankly, there is only one rubber manufacturer in the world who really makes bona-fide light density rubber, and richard browne does not use it. i believe his wetsuits are made by sheiko, as are peformance’ wetsuits, and these taiwanese-made wetsuits are okay, however sheiko won’t make a wetsuit for you unless you use their proprietary rubber, which is very good rubber, but not up to the technical specs of some of the other rubber manufacturers. this does help keep the price of the richard brown and the performance wetsuit down, however.  most of our rubber is japanese, and the strength of the yen is killing us.  we are about to raise our prices by 10-15% to compensate for it, which will hit the consumers in a few weeks.  i doubt that those manufacturers who are using taiwanese rubber will have to undergo a similar price increase. qrMAN

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<<I was interested in buying a Richard Brown hammerhead wetsuit. As this << <<is my first triathlon wetsuit do you think their is a big difference << <<between a 4mm thick suit and a 5mm suit. Will I notice a signifigant << <<difference ? Note I am of average swimming ability, i do tend to drag my << <<legs somewhat though. << <<                     Tired of freezing my unmentionables off . You should first make sure your unquestionables are covered sufficiently.   Above and beyond that, you should consider where the thick rubber is, and if that suits your style of swimming.  Our wetsuits are advertised as 4.5mm, but are actually 5.0mm, and are of a lighter density rubber than the Richard Browne, so they float higher still.  You should also consider where it is you sink, which is in your case the legs.  Therefore, your particular suit should have thick rubber from your knees down.  The lighter density rubber we use is also more pliable, and so you can have upwards of 5.0mm of rubber in your ankles and the wetsuit, when wet, will still come off easily.  A standard density rubber in that thickness would be difficult to get off your ankles. I’m being so gosh darn blatant right now.  I should be flamed for this. Kazez, please flame me. QRman

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: I’m being so gosh darn blatant right now.  I should be flamed for this. : Kazez, please flame me. : QRman qRmaN, Innies don’t get flamed.  Just to be sure, we’ll make you lift        up your shirt at Wildflower. Eric

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<— blantant commercial stuff deleted  —- The lighter density rubber we use is also more pliable, and so you can have upwards of 5.0mm of rubber in your ankles and the wetsuit, when wet, will still come off easily.  A standard density rubber in that thickness would be difficult to get off your ankles.

Seriously, what is the density range of rubber used in wetsuits?  What kind of tradeoff is there between density/pliability and other important factors ? Pat    W.Patrick Brug, Ph.D.  _-           -_    Los Alamos National Lab -__       __-                                       /    cis:      72410,3372        /  

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Question:

Does anyone know if the Evergreen High Country Tri will be on this year? It has been dropped from its previous position as an Ironman qualifier, and there has been no mention of it in the calendars of Triathlete and Inside Tri.

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: Does anyone know if the Evergreen High Country Tri will be on this year? It : has been dropped from its previous position as an Ironman qualifier, and : there has been no mention of it in the calendars of Triathlete and Inside : Tri. – Evergreen Triathlon has been cancelled.  Kind of discouraging! Not

     only did the IQ set of races loose a great event, one that had a      very unique set of characteristics, but in losing their IQ status,      Colorado triathletes lost an event that definitly ranked as one of      the best in the state. -RC

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: Does anyone know if the Evergreen High Country Tri will be on this year? It : has been dropped from its previous position as an Ironman qualifier, and : there has been no mention of it in the calendars of Triathlete and Inside : Tri. – Evergreen Triathlon has been cancelled.  Kind of discouraging! Not     only did the IQ set of races loose a great event, one that had a     very unique set of characteristics, but in losing their IQ status,     Colorado triathletes lost an event that definitly ranked as one of     the best in the state. -RC

Agreed!  Evergreen has been THE race for me for the past 4 years.  I still hope that the race will happen this year, but I am not holding my breath.  Guess I will have to look elsewhere for a challenging long distance course – it was nice having one in my own backyard. Jim

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. What was the problem?

What I heard from TriFed:   They lost the IQ status because Ironman thought that "The bike course   was too dangerous" What I heard from a friend of the race director:   "He thinks nobody will come if it’s not an IQ" —    LSC (aka Larry Chapman)    (303) 229-3117

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Danelle Ballengee is working to get the Evergreen Triathlon up and running on July 9. She also hopes to add a Mtn Bike Triathlon and Duathlon to the race. If you want more info, or want to help out, call Danelle at 303/661-0693. DC

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: Does anyone know if the Evergreen High Country Tri will be on this year? It : has been dropped from its previous position as an Ironman qualifier, and : there has been no mention of it in the calendars of Triathlete and Inside : Tri. – Evergreen Triathlon has been cancelled.  Kind of discouraging! Not     only did the IQ set of races loose a great event, one that had a     very unique set of characteristics, but in losing their IQ status,     Colorado triathletes lost an event that definitly ranked as one of     the best in the state.

That’s a real shame. Evergreen was one of the best events around for those who like a challenge. What was the problem? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –RC

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