Question:

Hi Is there a way of working it out of the graph with a donwloadable heart rate monitor and and a mag trainer ? Thanks — Steve           __|__               ——<()——-

Question:

Suggest you get a second opinion from a sports doc Sue Ross Queenstown Eco Pursuits www.qep.co.nz – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi All,    I’ve been having pain in my knees for the last two months. Prior to that I was doing alot of running and bicycling (training for my first triathlon) and I guess I just overdid it. The pain isn’t too bad anymore, some days are better than others. The thing that really bothers me is the crunching and popping coming from my knees now. Does anybody have any experiences with this problem. Will my knees ever "tighten up" if I stay off them for awhile? How long should I stay off them? I’ve been to the doctor, and he said everything’s OK. But my knees haven’t felt the same since. My right knee is particularly bad. The kneecap is very loose and I can move it around with my hand? Does anybody else’s knee do this? I’m getting kinda worried. I would GREATLY appreciate any info! Thanks in advance. Greg

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To stretch, stand up, grab your ankle and bring it behind you to your butt.  Hold for a while, release. -S-

There’s a better way to stretch the quadriceps than this method. Lie down on the floor so that you’re on your side. Then, bring both knees up to your chest. Now, move your knee back as far as possible. When you can no longer use your own muscles to move your knee back, use your hand and gently pull a little more. This, by the way, is all in Jim Wharton’s "Active-Isolated Stretching" book. Conal Graduate Student 337 Social Sciences 1 Dept. of Anthropology University of California-Santa Cruz

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The classic solution to "loose" knees is to strengthen the quadriceps. We can all move our kneecaps around with our hands – nothing wrong with that – but you can try strengthening *and stretching* your quads.  Both should be done.

Really? can everyone else move their kneecaps around? Mine are un- movable, maybe that’s been my problem. I agree that stretching is important too. I have had lots of knee problems, and one surgery. Stretching seems to help me more than anything. Also lots of sled work at the gym to strengthen the quads. My knees pop and crack so bad sounds like there’s lots of wicked stuff going on in there, but I think the sound isn’t a problem, since mine have always been a bit noisy even before they started giving me pain. Good luck… Mike Before you buy.

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The classic solution to "loose" knees is to strengthen the quadriceps. We can all move our kneecaps around with our hands – nothing wrong with that – but you can try strengthening *and stretching* your quads.  Both should be done. To strengthen, do the leg extension machine at your gym, or just sit on a table or firm chair and raise your lower leg all the way in front of you, lower and repeat.  For either method of exercise, I recommend you lower the legs about 2/3 of the way, 60-75 degrees, not a full 90 degree bend.  At home, you can throw a gym bag over your foot with a couple of soup cans in it for resistance. Biking, if it doesn’t bother you, is also good for strengthening the quads.  Make sure your bike fits you – this is a complicated subject and if you think you’re not fit right, talk to someone at your local bike To stretch, stand up, grab your ankle and bring it behind you to your butt.  Hold for a while, release. -S- – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi All,    I’ve been having pain in my knees for the last two months. Prior to that I was doing alot of running and bicycling (training for my first triathlon) and I guess I just overdid it. The pain isn’t too bad anymore, some days are better than others. The thing that really bothers me is the crunching and popping coming from my knees now. Does anybody have any experiences with this problem. Will my knees ever "tighten up" if I stay off them for awhile? How long should I stay off them? I’ve been to the doctor, and he said everything’s OK. But my knees haven’t felt the same since. My right knee is particularly bad. The kneecap is very loose and I can move it around with my hand? Does anybody else’s knee do this? I’m getting kinda worried. I would GREATLY appreciate any info! Thanks in advance. Greg

Response:

Hi All,    I’ve been having pain in my knees for the last two months. Prior to that I was doing alot of running and bicycling (training for my first triathlon) and I guess I just overdid it. The pain isn’t too bad anymore, some days are better than others. The thing that really bothers me is the crunching and popping coming from my knees now. Does anybody have any experiences with this problem. Will my knees ever "tighten up" if I stay off them for awhile? How long should I stay off them? I’ve been to the doctor, and he said I SHOULD be fine. But my knees haven’t felt the same since. My right knee is particularly bad. The kneecap is very loose and I can move it around with my hand? Does anybody else’s knee do this? I would GREATLY appreciate any info! Thanks in advance. Greg

Response:

The classic solution to "loose" knees is to strengthen the quadriceps. We can all move our kneecaps around with our hands – nothing wrong with that – but you can try strengthening *and stretching* your quads.  Both should be done.

If you do try to strengthen your quads be sure to ease into it and to strengthen the completing muscles (in this case I guess it would be the shins or calves…maybe).  Tight quads often is the cause of knee pain so be careful and be sure to stretch. -jeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – To strengthen, do the leg extension machine at your gym, or just sit on a table or firm chair and raise your lower leg all the way in front of you, lower and repeat.  For either method of exercise, I recommend you lower the legs about 2/3 of the way, 60-75 degrees, not a full 90 degree bend.  At home, you can throw a gym bag over your foot with a couple of soup cans in it for resistance. Biking, if it doesn’t bother you, is also good for strengthening the quads.  Make sure your bike fits you – this is a complicated subject and if you think you’re not fit right, talk to someone at your local bike To stretch, stand up, grab your ankle and bring it behind you to your butt.  Hold for a while, release. -S- Hi All,    I’ve been having pain in my knees for the last two months. Prior to that I was doing alot of running and bicycling (training for my first triathlon) and I guess I just overdid it. The pain isn’t too bad anymore, some days are better than others. The thing that really bothers me is the crunching and popping coming from my knees now. Does anybody have any experiences with this problem. Will my knees ever "tighten up" if I stay off them for awhile? How long should I stay off them? I’ve been to the doctor, and he said everything’s OK. But my knees haven’t felt the same since. My right knee is particularly bad. The kneecap is very loose and I can move it around with my hand? Does anybody else’s knee do this? I’m getting kinda worried. I would GREATLY appreciate any info! Thanks in advance. Greg

Response:

Hi All,    I’ve been having pain in my knees for the last two months. Prior to that I was doing alot of running and bicycling (training for my first triathlon) and I guess I just overdid it. The pain isn’t too bad anymore, some days are better than others. The thing that really bothers me is the crunching and popping coming from my knees now. Does anybody have any experiences with this problem. Will my knees ever "tighten up" if I stay off them for awhile? How long should I stay off them? I’ve been to the doctor, and he said everything’s OK. But my knees haven’t felt the same since. My right knee is particularly bad. The kneecap is very loose and I can move it around with my hand? Does anybody else’s knee do this? I’m getting kinda worried. I would GREATLY appreciate any info! Thanks in advance. Greg

Response:

Question:

David – Has the HMO situation really gotten that bad?  My advice — seek and heed the advice of your cardiac specialist(s).  If (s)he cannot relate to your athletic endevours, find one who can.  Pay for the consultation out of your own pocket if need be.  But don’t guess about this issue! — Mark Fellow tri-geeks, I was a competitive triathlete until I discovered I had mitral valve regurgitation.

<snip

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Fellow tri-geeks, I was a competitive triathlete until I discovered I had mitral valve regurgitation. It is a heart condition that has prevented me from continuing in my highly torturous lifestyle. Recently on the 20th May 98, I went for mitral valve repair. Since then I have been recovering from that operation. My dream is the same as any triathlete. To finish the Hawaiian Ironman. That is my long-term goal. I was wondering anyone has any opinion regarding my dream and my heart condition. For now, I am starting to swim. Not much, just about 600 m per session. I was wondering whether it is wise for me to do so, considering that the sternum has not totally fused. One last request, is there any triathlete out there who has gone through some kind of cardiac operation and is currently training. I really need some advice and experience sharing. Thanks. David Leong

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Question:

Does anyone know of a good place where I can get a reflective vest?  I have looked all over the place for a reflective orange vest with yellow stripes, similar to those seen at construction sites.  No sporting shops around here sell anything like it. I’d like to be more visible for my morning and night jogs. GK Gary W. Kopycinski             Ecclesia Semper Reformanda! http://homepage.interaccess.com/~frodojrr      Team OS/2!           Shire Enterprises FAX * (708) 755-0915 * Bart’s Blackboard : "I will not yell "Fire" in a crowded classroom."

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Do you have Sports Authority in your area?  I’ve seen reflective vests being sold there…around the in line skating section.   Kirk S.   http://members.aol.com/coincider/homepage/index.htm (Triathlon, swimming, and running links here)  

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Does anyone know of a good place where I can get a reflective vest?  

You may want to try Road Runner Sports – 800-551-5558. They have reflective vests that are white mesh with very wide white reflective stripes ($16.99). I’ve been using one for about a year and its nice to see the cars move when they see you! Bill

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: Does anyone know of a good place where I can get a reflective vest?  I : have looked all over the place for a reflective orange vest with : yellow stripes, similar to those seen at construction sites.  No : sporting shops around here sell anything like it. : I’d like to be more visible for my morning and night jogs. I thought I saw one in a Road Runner Sports catalog.

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: Does anyone know of a good place where I can get a reflective vest?  I : have looked all over the place for a reflective orange vest with : yellow stripes, similar to those seen at construction sites.  No : sporting shops around here sell anything like it. : I’d like to be more visible for my morning and night jogs. I thought I saw one in a Road Runner Sports catalog.

Thanks.  I found one at Menard’s.  It’s perhaps made more for construction, but, in the dead of winter, I’m only worried about being seen.  I don’t suppose that these others from sports catalogues are any more aerodynamic anyhow.  I will take a look the next time I get a catalogue from Road Runner Sports. GK Gary W. Kopycinski             Ecclesia Semper Reformanda! http://homepage.interaccess.com/~frodojrr      Team OS/2!           Shire Enterprises FAX * (708) 755-0915 * Bart’s Blackboard (9F18) : "I will return the seeing-eye dog."

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you should also get the reflective ankle straps. the motion is easier to spot for the drivers. : Does anyone know of a good place where I can get a reflective vest?  I : have looked all over the place for a reflective orange vest with : yellow stripes, similar to those seen at construction sites.  No : sporting shops around here sell anything like it. : I’d like to be more visible for my morning and night jogs. I thought I saw one in a Road Runner Sports catalog.

http://www.europa.com/~tick1845 comics, science, running, lots of other crap http://www.europa.com/~tick1845/bin_help.htm free instructions on downloading usenet files. downloading, decoding, viewing, editing, posting,  etc…

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Question:

Water temp at Mrs. T’s is usually cold (60’s) but I’ve survived the last two years without a wetsuit (these were my first two years doing tris and I didn’t want to spend the money on a wetsuit until I was sure I’d do more). I believe it’s been warmer than usual the last 2 years though (near 70 I think). I’ve since purchased a wetsuit (for Pacific Grove last Sept.) and plan to use it at Mrs. T’s this year whatever the water temp (I don’t think we count on Lake Michigan being uncharacteristically warm every year!). I’ve heard stories of high 50’s/low 60’s from the past. ….. David – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ll be doing the Mrs. T’s Chicago Triathlon for the first time this August. Can anyone tell me what the water temperature is usually like there and whether I’ll need to purchase a wetsuit for it or not? —                                        http://www.midplains.net/~spev

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I’ll be doing the Mrs. T’s Chicago Triathlon for the first time this August. Can anyone tell me what the water temperature is usually like there and whether I’ll need to purchase a wetsuit for it or not?                                        http://www.midplains.net/~spev

The water temp in Chicago really depends on the winds over the days previous to the race. If the wind has been blowing from the west, the warm surface water actually gets blown over to Michigan and cold subsurface water rises to the top. The temp can be in the low 60s in August. Steve Lowery                    http://www.sourcebar.com

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I’ll be doing the Mrs. T’s Chicago Triathlon for the first time this August. Can anyone tell me what the water temperature is usually like there and whether I’ll need to purchase a wetsuit for it or not? —                                        http://www.midplains.net/~spev

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Question:

Hi-         I currently work out on a sort of triathalon schedule.  I swim 1 day per week, cycle 2 d.p.w, and run 2 d.p.w.  My long run on sundays is around 8-10 miles.         I want to run longer races, and my question is whether it is better to continue building my aerobic base by increasing the program i’m on now (which should avoid nagging running soreness and injuries), or running 3-4 d.p.w. and courting the injuries in order to train "running muscles" more effectively.  Right now the only "injury" i get is a little ankle soreness from about 6 miles until the end of the run. tia, dp

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Hi-    I currently work out on a sort of triathalon schedule.  I swim 1 day per week, cycle 2 d.p.w, and run 2 d.p.w.  My long run on sundays is around 8-10 miles.    I want to run longer races, and my question is whether it is better to continue building my aerobic base by increasing the program i’m on now (which should avoid nagging running soreness and injuries), or running 3-4 d.p.w. and courting the injuries in order to train "running muscles" more effectively.  Right now the only "injury" i get is a little ankle soreness from about 6 miles until the end of the run. tia, dp

Hi Daniel: You want to run longer runs, not longer triathlons, correct? How much longer? Your base right now is probably adequate for a half-marathon, depending on how long those bikes are. Biking is good for endurance training. you can stay out for several hours and work pretty hard w/o worrying too much about injuries. The real question is how serious (competitive) are you? Are you talking about running them for fun, or getting serious? To run competitively (age group wins) at longer distances, you do have to get the running mileage in. Specificity does count. But if you just want to do them and be a Moper or Boper (Middle/Back Of the PackerER), then don’t worry as much about quantity. You can keep it reasonable and still have fun. I’d pay attention to increasing the quality of your present workouts before worrying about quantity. No junk mileage. Mike "TriBOP" Tennent WebRunner Running Page — Southeast USA Race Calendar 200+ listings. Beginner’s FAQ, Software Download the WebRunner Racing Utilities   http://www.webrunner.com/webrun/running/running.html

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Question:

Sorry for the wide distribution. For those of you that live in the Worcester MA area there is a group of us that do an open water swim every Friday morning at 6:30. The swim is in Bell Pond on RT 9. All are welcome to join us and bring a wetsuit. For more details send me email at rtanski.sw.stratus.com bob tanski

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Sorry for the wide distribution. For those of you that live in the Worcester MA area there is a group of us that do an open water swim every Friday morning at 6:30. The swim is in Bell Pond on RT 9. All are welcome to join us and bring a wetsuit. For more details send me email at rtanski.sw.stratus.com bob tanski

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Question:

Dan, I am still considering buying some wheels. But I have a question. You say that the Zipp 440’s are much lighter than shamals. In the Excell sports and Colorado Cyclist catalogues, a front shamal is said to weigh about 790grams, whereas the 440’s (front) are said to weigh about 840grams. Is this a mistake?

It depends on what is included in the weight. Wheels are normally weighed without QRs, tires, or a cassette/fw. Bicycling did a very poor review of aero wheels in Sept/Oct 93 but if we assume that they weighed the wheels correctly they show a pair of Zipps to be 441 grams lighter than the Shamals. I assume that this is for the Zipps with the Zipp hubs and the Shamals without the alloy cassette hub which saves 55 grams (claimed). I don’t stock Shamals but here are the actual weights for the Zipp 440 fronts I have in stock:      Zipp 440 with Zipp hub, 16 spokes                         628g      Zipp 440 with American Classic hub, 24 spokes     700g      Zipp 440 with Dura Ace hub, 16 spokes                  752g As you can see, the weight depends greatly on the hub used. If you have any more questions let me know. Dan Rishworth Toronto, Canada 800 448 4678 416 449 0432 416 449 2612 fax – sent via an evaluation copy of BulkRate (unregistered).

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Three points on aero wheels: Zipp 440 and 400 wheels do _not_ weight 440 and 400 grams, respectively.  That is merely the weight of the _rims_, not including hubs and spokes.  When comparing weights, be sure to compare total weights.  Hub choice will greatly affect total weight, especially in the rear.  Cassette hubs are generally heavier than spin-ons, but usually give better shifting performance if you use Shimano hyper-glide.  Ti cassette hubs are available and save about 100 grams over comparable Ultegra hubs, but cost a lot more. I have the J-Disk JDF and JDR deep section rims (clincher) and havd had no problems so far.  Total weight for the front wheel in 700c is 615g tubular and 700g clincher, and in 26" 575g tubular, according to the manufacturer, Nosler Research.  Ti or graphite spokes will make them lighter. Joining the World’s Toughest triathlon "team" for $20 will give you 10% off on your order.  If you plan to spend $600 to $1000 for a pair of wheels this is an easy way to save money. David F. Monti, Race Results Weekly "Race results by fax first thing every Monday morning…"

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        Here’s my $0.02…         I have a Zipp 950 rear disk.  I adore it.  I got it used, so I didn’t pay as much as a new one would cost, but I have been thrilled with it’s performance and durability over the past two seasons.         I have used a Specialized Trispoke as a front wheel only. I seemed quite flexy when cornering or pedaling out of the saddle. Although I did not use this wheel on the rear, I cannot imagine that it would be stiff enough to withstand hard pedaling out of the saddle.  The lack of stiffness on the front was not a problem, but it was something I had to get used to for a while before I became comfortable with them.         A good radially laced bladed spoke wheel with an aero rim works well under a wide variety of conditions on the front and it is much cheaper than any of the composite wheels.  You can get them in an infinite array of configurations (hub, spoke # and type, and rim), and my 28-spoke wheel is stiffer than either the Specialized Trispoke or my TriSpoke (no longer available) wheel.  For the front, I would highly reccomend you consider this type of wheel. Timothy — Timothy Gotsick

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        I plan to buy a race wheel(s) soon in the off season in the hopes of getting a deal. However, I am a little unsure of the type… I have heard that 1.) Hed disks are too heavy 2) Spinergy wheels are fragile 3) Zipp discs are overpriced 4) Rear Zipp and Hed deep rims only save about 30-40 seconds over 40k compared to the tri spoke type and discs which save 1:10 5) Specialized rear wheels flex badly 6) Campy shamals are pretty hefty as well 7) J Discs are REALLY fragile

I’ve had my J-Disc since ‘91 without any problems; however, I would be reluctant to put it on any sort of roof rack.  I noticed that O’Neils (I am no way associated with this outfit and don’t know their phone number off-hand) is clearing out some 700c clincher 7-speed J-Discs for $99.  I use sew-ups, but this looks like a decent price for someone racing on clinchers. —    W.Patrick Brug, Ph.D.  _-           -_    Los Alamos National Lab -__       __-                                       /    cis:      72410,3372        /  

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        I plan to buy a race wheel(s) soon in the off season in the hopes of getting a deal. However, I am a little unsure of the type… I have heard that 1.) Hed disks are too heavy 2) Spinergy wheels are fragile 3) Zipp discs are overpriced 4) Rear Zipp and Hed deep rims only save about 30-40 seconds over 40k compared to the tri spoke type and discs which save 1:10 5) Specialized rear wheels flex badly 6) Campy shamals are pretty hefty as well 7) J Discs are REALLY fragile Has anyone had any luck with any of these wheel types or others, or any advice?

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1.) Hed disks are too heavy 2) Spinergy wheels are fragile 3) Zipp discs are overpriced 4) Rear Zipp and Hed deep rims only save about 30-40 seconds over      40k compared  to the tri spoke type and discs which save 1:10 5) Specialized rear wheels flex badly 6) Campy shamals are pretty hefty as well 7) J Discs are REALLY fragile

Kevan, Here are some comments on the above: 1) The light version of the HED disk weighs 900g which, while heavier than most specialty      wheels, is a lightweight disk. It has been shown to be very fast especially at crosswind      angles from 25 to 90 degrees (July 1993 Cycling Plus). 2) The long term durability of the rev.X is unproven. It will shatter spectacularly if you get a      pedal in the "spokes", however this will damage any wheel. It is important to use the "spoke      protector" that comes with the rear wheel to protect it. There have also been complaints      from very strong riders about lateral flex while climbing (NZ worlds this year). All of this      notwithstanding, I expect the rev.X to be a popular wheel next season. 3) Overpriced is a relative term. We have both Zipp 950 disks and HED lightweight disks at      C$1095 for tubular, 8sp cassette (the Zipp is a 1994 price). I would say the HED is a      better value when you consider that it can be had for less in other forms. 4) I don’t think that it is considered speculation any more to state that aerodynamically disks      are the fastest wheels followed by composite spoked wheels, and deep-V wheels. There are      many other factors to be considered, however: cost, weight, versatility, durability. Deep-      V wheels are good choices in all of these catagories. They are cheaper and lighter (esp. Zipp)      useable in more conditions (eg. hilly and windy courses) and more durable in that they can      be trued and maintained like conventional wheels. 5) Specialized wheels do have a repuation for flexing laterally when cornering and to a lesser      degree climbing and sprinting. They are also very stiff vertically which results in a harsh      ride, especailly for lighter riders. 6) Shamals do weigh more that the other deep-V wheels. Over 1/4  pound heavier than a pair of      CXs (July 93 CP) which are already *much* heavier than 440s – over a pound heavier by      my count. 7) We have a J-Disc which we rent and we have had no problems. A few minor cuts in the      mylar have been patched easily and invisibly. They can be trued and the mylar can be      replaced in necessary. I hope this helps. If you want some more info, let me know. If you are ready to buy we carry all the wheels discussed above but currently have in stock only the Specialized and my personal faves, the Zipp 440 and Spinergy rev.X. The others can be ordered within a few days. Dan Rishworth Toronto, Canada 800 448 4678 416 449 0432 416 449 2612 fax – sent via an evaluation copy of BulkRate (unregistered).

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Question:

: Hi, : I will be doing my first half-Ironman distance race on April 30th (it’s : getting awfully close!); it will be Wildflower Long Course.  I have done : olympic distance before, but need some advice on Long Course events. : (1) What do you wear in a Long Course Tri?  Should I do it in padded :     swim trunks (which is what I wear in Olympic Course), or lightly :     padded cycling shorts (like the InSport model)?  Or should I :     change after the swim and/or the bike? :     I always used to wear bike shorts with a light padding for all three stages (except for Fountain Mountain where wetsuits were forbidden), but then I also used unpadded bike shorts for shorter distances and even just for running. : (2) In short races, I bike and run sockless. :     What should I do in Long Course? I rarely used socks for half-ironman, just put vaseline on any seams in your shoes and use LOTS of talcum powder. : Kostya Vasilyev                                               run like a cheetah : SYMANTEC Corp. Development Tools                      eat like a pig : (408) 446-7165                                                party like hell Good luck, — James Tappin,           School of Physics & Space Research                         University of Birmingham                         "If all else fails–read the instructions!"                          O__                           —  /`

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| Hi, | | I will be doing my first half-Ironman distance race on April 30th (it’s | getting awfully close!); it will be Wildflower Long Course.   Whatever you do, don’t repeat my mistake.  I did the race with a 13-21 and even though I *like* hills, the 21 wasn’t nearly wimpy enough for some of the really steep hills.  Anyone done a tougher 1/2 Ironman course than Wildflower?  I would guess that Semi-Tough is more difficult, but no others come to mind…

Wildflower has some pretty steep hills on the course.  There are a few at the beginning, but most come at the end.  I measured 2550 feet of climbing when I last did the race in 1992. Regarding Semi-Tough: It isn’t a 1/2 ironman, it is an international distance race.  I guess that Charlie Lincoln realized that anyone who would want to do a fiendishly hilly 1/2 ironman would probably already be signed up for World’s Toughest.  Not having done Semi-Tough, you’ll have to take my comments with a grain of salt.  I imagine the bike course would follow the same roads as Toughest, in which case it really wouldn’t be very hilly.  Keeping the distance around 40K would put you on top of Luther Pass before it is time to turn around. The ride to the base of Luther is relatively flat.  I’m not sure what they do on the run.  There could be some some pretty primitive trails if they follow a course similar to Toughest, but again the real hills from the Toughest course are beyond the range of a 10K.  I tend to think that Donner Lake Tri has a tougher bike course (2350 feet of climbing in <25 miles), but the last descent is a blast! I really wish I could find more hilly races!                                         — John — John Walker                Jackson & Tull Chartered Engineers

Response:

| Hi, | | I will be doing my first half-Ironman distance race on April 30th (it’s | getting awfully close!); it will be Wildflower Long Course.   Whatever you do, don’t repeat my mistake.  I did the race with a 13-21 and even though I *like* hills, the 21 wasn’t nearly wimpy enough for some of the really steep hills.  Anyone done a tougher 1/2 Ironman course than Wildflower?  I would guess that Semi-Tough is more difficult, but no others come to mind… | I have done | olympic distance before, but need some advice on Long Course events. | | (1) What do you wear in a Long Course Tri?  Should I do it in padded |     swim trunks (which is what I wear in Olympic Course), or lightly |     padded cycling shorts (like the InSport model)?  Or should I |     change after the swim and/or the bike? I wear padded swim trunks and a singlet.  Since it is likely to be 90+ at Wildflower, I stongly recommend a singlet on the bike to prevent burning. | (2) In short races, I bike and run sockless. |     What should I do in Long Course? Definitely wear socks.   — Mike Gilson "For those who think, life is a comedy; for those who feel, life is a tragedy."

Response:

Hi! I’ve done my first half Ironman two years ago. It’s a great distance (not too short, not too long). For the swim, I only had my swimsuit under my wetsuit and I put dry cycling shorts and triathlon singlet after the swim. In fact it depends on what you expect from this race: if you’re racing for a great place in your age group (or overall), you may want to shave some seconds on the total time. I lost maybe 20 seconds at the transition and this is not much on a 4h47 race! For the running I put socks (20 seconds also) and I feel great for the whole race. A friend who did the whole race with race with a swimsuit was 15 minutes after me at the end (and we’re usually at the same level). This may not be due to his clothes but how know? For such long race, I prefer to have some confort than shaving only 40 seconds and suffering the last 2 hours! Enjoy your race! Frederic

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Hi, I will be doing my first half-Ironman distance race on April 30th (it’s getting awfully close!); it will be Wildflower Long Course.  I have done olympic distance before, but need some advice on Long Course events. (1) What do you wear in a Long Course Tri?  Should I do it in padded     swim trunks (which is what I wear in Olympic Course), or lightly     padded cycling shorts (like the InSport model)?  Or should I     change after the swim and/or the bike? (2) In short races, I bike and run sockless.     What should I do in Long Course? Kostya Vasilyev                                         run like a cheetah SYMANTEC Corp. Development Tools                        eat like a pig (408) 446-7165                                          party like hell

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Question:

I agree with everything in the original post but I think one thing was left out which should have been mentioned under number 4: 4.  Less aero drag with smaller wheels due to smaller frontal area.

Smaller wheels spin faster and thus cause more turbulence which increases drag.  However, I do not know which is greater: the drop in drag due to the decreased frontal area or the increase in drag due to the faster wheel rotation. Lance Muzslay

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What is the general consensus on width of tire?  What kind of a difference does it make on overall performance?  What do the pros use?  I train and race on 700×18’s for no particular reason except that it seemed to make sense to choose a faster tire (less rolling resistance) if the price was the same.   But now that I think about it, I get quite a few more "snake bites" in my tubes than my training pals – would the skinny tires contribute to it?

Wider tires definitely reduce the frequency of pinch flats.  Especially for heavier riders such as I (195 lbs.) skinny tires can be a real pain.  I see no point in using tires which might save you a few seconds, but could also cost you 15 minutes, by increasing the probability of getting a flat. In a half-ironman called Mike & Rob’s Most Excellent Triathlon a week and a half ago, one guy I passed made a joke about my 700×35 tires, but at least I was not among the many people fixing flats along the course.  I will admit that 700×35 is going a bit over-board, but I also use my bike for commuting with lots of junk in the panniers, and for schlepping my 2 year old around on a bike seat, and so I have lots of weight on my back wheel quite often. The speed increase due to skinny tires is often over-stated because people fail to recalibrate their speedometers.  Big tires produce a larger wheel circumference, and so one must not simply compare wheel revolutions per minute with wide and narrow tires; wide tires increase the effective gear ratio for the same ring/cog combination. I also dread taking off my tires when I get a flat – are thicker tires easier to deal with?

Perhaps a bit, but my tires have wire, not Kevlar beads, and so I cannot comment on the lighter weight tires. If you dread changing a clincher, then forget about tublars!  I had a bike with those, but quit using those wheels.  I think they are an expensive pain in the neck, and would only use them if I were being followed by a support vehicle which would instantly hand me a new wheel after every flat.  I do not expect to find myself in this position any time soon. Happy pedaling (and swimming and running),

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Just felt this discussion wouldn’t be complete without my $0.02 worth. I ride Trek aluminum bikes right now (an older 1200 and a newer 1400).  My roommate has an older Cannondale with the big oversized tubes.  I have ridden this bicycle a few times, and in one word, it is STIFF.  However, my 1400 is noticeably stiffer than the 1200 with the same size tubes (different alloys I hear).   It is my understanding that wheels have much to with ride quality.  Comments anybody? Now to compare the Treks to the ‘dale… My roommate and I did a quasi-scientific flex test.  We put each bike on windtrainer and roughly measured the sway of the bottom bracket (which nearly gave me a heart attack !!!).  The Cannondale was noticeably less than the Treks (as expected).  So much for science. I believe the oversized tubes reduce this wasteful bottom bracket sway.  But side to side sway is not much of a factor in ride quality/frame shock absorption.  Think about it… I believe frame geometry directly influences bike handling, as the angles of the loads are directed differently to the wheels on differently angled bikes.  Further more, a bike frame does flex and bend under load (see above). These flexings and movements are directly related to both material and geometry.   Furthermore, ride quality is directly influenced by frame stiffness/material. Read recent issues of Inside Triathlon to verify. Finally, if one bike works for you – ride it.  If it doesn’t, then find one that does.   This is all supposed to be fun, right? Rolf Arands

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It is my understanding that wheels have much to with ride quality.  Comments anybody?

More tires than wheels.  Put 700X25’s on a ‘dale and you’ll have a great riding comfortable bike that is light, strong, and corners like a dream.  Very few of us are fast enough for the slight increase in width to make any difference in times.  You’ll have less flats too! -Terry

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… Put 700X25’s on a ‘dale and you’ll have a great riding comfortable bike that   is light, strong, and corners like a dream.  Very few of us are fast enough… to make any difference in times.  … less flats too!

What is the general consensus on width of tire?  What kind of a difference      does it make on overall performance?  What do the pros use?  I train and      race on 700×18’s for no particular reason except that it seemed to make sense      to choose a faster tire (less rolling resistance) if the price was the same.   But now that I think about it, I get quite a few more "snake bites" in my tubes      than my training pals – would the skinny tires contribute to it?  I also dread      taking off my tires when I get a flat – are thicker tires easier to deal with?        BTW, I plan on NEVER riding in a crit.   While I’m on the subject of tires, one more question.  How do clinchers      compare with tubulars?  What would the difference be between say, a Continental      Grand Prix clincher with 63 gram tubes in them and a Cont. Gr. Prix Tubular in      terms of performance?  Thanks.  Jeff.      

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What is the general consensus on width of tire?  What kind of a difference      does it make on overall performance?  What do the pros use?  I train and      race on 700×18’s for no particular reason except that it seemed to make sense      to choose a faster tire (less rolling resistance) if the price was the same.  

I train on "fat"  therefore  more reliable  tires.  A skinny tire will have more  snakebites  than a fat one.  Also, more beefy tires are less prone to puncture. Recent  studies have shown that a tire  1mm-2mm  wider than the rim is best for aerodynamics (gives the wheel a "teardrop" shape). I, personally, never mess with tubulars.  A good clincher/tube  combo these days is nearly as light and  clinchers  don’t roll off rims.  Bikies  claim that a tubular handles much better but in a TT who really cares? — LSC (aka Larry Chapman)    (303) 229-3117

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Recent  studies have shown that a tire  1mm-2mm  wider than the rim is best for aerodynamics (gives the wheel a "teardrop" shape). Does this take into consideration rolling resistance?  Or is the point that as speed increases, wind resistance increases (a lot) while rolling resistance stays the same (or possibly decreases).  So the teardrop shape of the tire/wheel more than dwarf any effect that rolling resistance has on speed.  Is that why you see faster people riding 26" wheels more often than slower people – the help of a smaller wheel profile offsets the increased rolling resistance that a more curved (26") wheel gives at some threshold speed.  I wonder what the threshold is. 20 mph?  25 mph? Anyone?  

From what I understand there are several things that occur when one uses the smaller 26" wheels vs the more common 700c/27" wheel. 1.  Most significantly, the rotating moment of inertia is proportional to the square of the radius of the wheel.  The equation is something like I = m* r^2  where m is the wheel mass and r is the radius.  Since the acceleration of a wheel under a given torque is inversely proportional to I (high I – low acceleration), one wants to reduce I.  Reducing wheel weight is one way, reducing the radius is another and much more effective in my opinion.  Smaller diameter wheels do both.   At **PERFECTLY** steady speed on a flat course the mass of the bike/rider has no effect on power output other than affecting rolling resistance.   Thus at steady speed on a flat course one’s output is a direct function of aero drag + rolling friction + mechanical drag.   In most bikes races one is never truly at steady speed where this moment of inertia stuff is irrelevant.  One is constantly fluctuating in speed, going up a little hill, down a hill, around a corner, etc.  These are accelerations where this stuff matters.  In hill climbs a big difference I would expect (I have never used these wheels, just "analyzed" them).  Thus one can apply less torque to the smaller wheels and maintain the same acceleration.   Essentially one’s power output is reduced at a given speed.  More energy for the run??? 2.  Shorter spokes flex less under torque.  Thus, better power transfer to the pavement occurs with smaller diameter wheels.  As an aside, I have also noted this with my Cx wheels, which have shortened bladed spokes.   3.  Higher rolling resistance of smaller diameter wheel is due to the sharper angle of contact of the smaller rim (**I think**).  However, from what I have read this is negligible compared to other factors. 4.  Less aero drag with smaller wheels due to smaller frontal area.   5.  Regearing of the bike is necessary to maintain ratios.  Larger chain rings are usually used, but I will leave this up to someone who is more familiar with gear-inches or whatever they use for this.  This is not a big factor IMHO.   As far as teardrop shape effects go, I do not think that these are terribly large **WHEN COMPARED TO THESE EFFECTS ABOVE**.  Think about the size of the two different sized wheels relative to the rest of the bike and rider.  The air drag difference will be small, IMHO.   These are my thoughts anyway.  After writing them, I am almost convinced to invest in a smaller wheeled bike!!! Rolf Arands

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Recent  studies have shown that a tire  1mm-2mm  wider than the rim is best for aerodynamics (gives the wheel a "teardrop" shape).

Does this take into consideration rolling resistance?  Or is the point that as speed increases, wind resistance increases (a lot) while rolling resistance stays the same (or possibly decreases).  So the teardrop shape of the tire/wheel more than dwarf any effect that rolling resistance has on speed.  Is that why you see faster people riding 26" wheels more often than slower people – the help of a smaller wheel profile offsets the increased rolling resistance that a more curved (26") wheel gives at some threshold speed.  I wonder what the threshold is. 20 mph?  25 mph? Anyone?  

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