Sport Triathlon Wiki » Triathlon » running events in France
Hi, Does anyone know of a site which will tell me what events are going on in France please? thanks
Try these sites: http://www.space-management.com/, http://fr.dir.yahoo.com/sports_et_loisirs/Sports/Course_a_pied/ http://www.courirenfrance.com/. Ken Hi, Does anyone know of a site which will tell me what events are going on in France please? thanks
Ken Parker Runner’s Web A running & triathlon resource site. http://www.runnersweb.com/running.html
Sport Triathlon Wiki » Triathlete » A funny thing happened on the way to dinner
So, I am trying to get a table for dinner, and the hostess asks my name. I tell her Welch. She says, "Any relation to Greg Welch?" Now, I happened to have on my IMC finisher’s shirt, and I think to myself, wow, she knows about triathlons! So I ask her "Greg Welch, the triathlete?" I receive the blankest of looks, and she says "Never mind." Oh well, I was thinking I could have gotten the table a little sooner… John "No relation to Greg" Welch
How about Jack? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -John "No relation to Greg" Welch
How about Jack?
CEO of GE? I wish! John Welch
Sport Triathlon Wiki » Triathlon Training » New to tri's looking for a bike.
Man are you in a bad way. Training for 6 months and still not done your first Tri!!!!!!
I trained for over *2 years* before my first tri. If you’ve never been in an organized event before, it can be quite intimidating. I started when some co-workers were going on a 50 mile ride. I’d never done anything even close to that before, but decided to try anyway. I found out that I really enjoyed it. I spent some long hours working with another guy, who happened to be a triathlete and long-distance swimmer. He got me really stoked on the idea and we actively followed the career of Jeff Devlin (who used to work in the same department as both of us). Finally, after a few MS150 rides, a handful of road races and half-marathons, and a smattering of duathlons, I’ve just completed my first season (all of *3* races) in triathlon. But to get back to your question… I recommend a good bike for training and racing. Some people take pride in their beaters, but I’m not one of them. I had a Specialized Allez with a bent frame that I rode for several years, but I was unable to adapt the bike for time-trialing. I test-rode the QR Kilo and the Softride Windshear. I didn’t like the feel of the Softride at first, but gave it another chance after getting some input from other Softride owners. I love my bike, but go shopping. That’s half the fun of it. Here’s a decent short list (all in the <$1500 range): Scott Wiamea Cannondale R700 QR Kilo Softride Enjoy!
I am training for my first triathalon and need a suggestion for a good bike to start with. I have been training seriously for about 6 months now and figure it is time to get a nice bike to train with. However, I do not want to spend a fortune. Does and anyone have any suggestions? Any help or directions will be greatly aprreciated. Thank you, Alan
Man are you in a bad way. Training for 6 months and still not done your first Tri!!!!!! My advice to you is get out there and do an event, or even several events before you start lashing out cash on expensive bikes. I did my first event on a bike that cost 30ukp from the small ads in the local paper (about $50) I had only been training for a few weeks and finished well. Now six events later I am still riding a second hand bike (this one cost 100ukp ($160). At least I know that I like the sport and can keep up the training. Next season when I move up to longer events (only sprints this year) I might think about a new bike, but as the man says, a great bike isn’t going to win races with a crap engine. After all unless you are a budding Simon Lessing or Spencer Smith you main objective, at least to begin with, should be to get out there and enjoy it. I regularly pass guys on bikes which cost 2000ukp+. (Burned someone on a Giant — | ___| |__ _ __(_)___ http://www.markch.demon.co.uk/index.html | | | _ ‘__| | __| 7 Kistvaen Gardens, Meltham | |___| | | | | | |__ | West Yorkshire. HD7 3NQ
I will not be so bold as to recommend a particular bike so I will give these suggestions: 1) Go to several bike shops and tell them what your goals are and decide on a budget (remember you will probably want cycling shoes, shorts and I recommend a helmet strongly for all riding, not just to use in tri’s). 2) Test ride a lot of bikes. Ride bikes just below your budget and also above your budget to see the differences. While the tech talk is great, do not neglect "feel" totally. I use the same rules for shoes–if they do not feel good walking around the store, they probably will not feel good during a 10 miler. A bike is the same way–if it does not "feel" good to you on a 2 mile test ride, it probably won’t get much better on a 50 miler. However, the reverse is not true. A bike can feel great on the test ride and then not so great later. Of course, since I never bought a bike that did not feel good on the test ride, I cannot give you a guarantee that you will not grow to love it. 3) Consider buying at the end of the season when stores start to dump the 1997s to make room for winter stock and/or 1998 models. I bought my first "serious" bike during the off season and it was the previous year’s model. I asked the salesperson what the difference was between the past year and the current year, he said $250 and a small upgrade in components that as a beginner I would never notice. He was right and the extra money went for other gear. 4) Bikes are like everything else, next year’s model with the same features will be cheaper as the tech increases so do not get discouraged. My wife’s recent bike is a lot nicer than my few year old model and costs less. I call this the PC syndrome (for Personal Computer, not political correctness). Good luck. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am training for my first triathalon and need a suggestion for a good bike to start with. I have been training seriously for about 6 months now and figure it is time to get a nice bike to train with. However, I do not want to spend a fortune. Does and anyone have any suggestions? Any help or directions will be greatly aprreciated. Thank you, Alan
I am training for my first triathalon and need a suggestion for a good bike to start with. I have been training seriously for about 6 months now and figure it is time to get a nice bike to train with. However, I do not want to spend a fortune. Does and anyone have any suggestions? Any help or directions will be greatly aprreciated. Thank you, Alan
Sport Triathlon Wiki » Triathlon » sugar free sports drink recipes
i know we’ve been through this before, but i need a recipe for a sports drink without sugar in it. I can’t use sugar. Thanks again!
Since glucose, sucrose, fructose, etc are all sugars, I’m not sure there is an energy drink without "sugars". Perhaps you can better define chemically what it is you don’t (can’t ) use? TriBop WebRunner Running Page — Southeast USA Race Calendar 200+ listings. Beginner’s FAQ, Software Download the WebRunner Racing Utilities http://www.webrunner.com/webrun/running/running.html
Sorry, maybe I wasn’t clear enough……. I am looking for recipes for a sports drink, using orange juice instead of sugar. I would like to use something on my longer runs, but I can’t really use sugar. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
Perhaps you need to be a bit more articulate. Last time I checked orange juice had sugar in it (fructose). Are you trying to say that you can’t "use" sucrose? Are you diabetic? The overriding purpose of a "sports" drink is 1) fluid replacement 2) energy replacement, and to a much smaller extent 3) electrolite replacement. So, if you don’t have some form of sugar (glucose, sucrose, fructose, dextrose…) in the drink you might as well be drinking water. I have yet to see a DIET sportsdrink. Makes as much sense as dehydrated water. Thom Trimble East Bay Striders
The only type of sugar that would be ok for me to use would be fructose. that is why i was interested in using the orange juice. And no I am not looking for a "diet" sport drink. I am talking about during my longer runs 15 miles and over. I could be wrong but wouldn’t water alone be considered inadequate for the distance. Well any help and/or advice would be appreciated.
water and orange juice mixed together? andrew (sorry, couldn’t resist 
Sorry, maybe I wasn’t clear enough……. I am looking for recipes for a sports drink, using orange juice instead of sugar. I would like to use something on my longer runs, but I can’t really use sugar. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
– work phone/fax: 0131 668 8356, office: 0131 668 8357 institute for astronomy, royal observatory, blackford hill, edinburgh http://www.roe.ac.uk/ajcwww
The only type of sugar that would be ok for me to use would be fructose. that is why i was interested in using the orange juice. And no I am not looking for a "diet" sport drink. I am talking about during my longer runs 15 miles and over. I could be wrong but wouldn’t water alone be considered inadequate for the distance. Well any help and/or advice would be appreciated.
Hi Patty I’m starting to think Terry’s drink may be good for you. I found a great source on information about sports drink rehydration. http://chico.rice.edu/~jenkins/sports/dehydration.html Let me summarize: Sweat contains more than two grams of sweat per liter. Gatorade contains just a little more than one. Potassium and sodium are excreted with the sweat and are more crucial to rehydration than electrolytes. The source also suggests not bothering with a sugar sports drink for runs under 1 hour. Just use water. I personally have good results with drinks using Maltodextrin as the sugar. People in the industry say it burns slower. I have found this sugar dominant in some drinks OTHER than Gatorade. You just have to read the label. Oh, and yes I ran 10k this evening. I had two big glasses of water and a chocolate chip cookie. Bye for now, J Jay Jewitt Gulf Coast Internet Mall http://www.gcnetmall.com
Hi Patty I’m starting to think Terry’s drink may be good for you. I found a great source on information about sports drink rehydration. http://chico.rice.edu/~jenkins/sports/dehydration.html Let me summarize: Sweat contains more than two grams of sweat per liter. Gatorade
to the triathlon group and his home page is thorough. I sent some info to him at Rice Univ. on behalf of Bill Gookin and don’t know if other "G" word and that is one thing that triggered his inventiveness back in the late 60s. If you decide to contact Bill (or me for that matter) a freebie ’semi-tech’ report on sports activity drinks is diabetes question? I wondered about that. Gookinaid E.R.G. packaging bears the admonition to check with physician in case one is diabetic to ascertain if 5% glucose (max) is tolerable. 2470 Stearns, ste.274 Simi Valley, CA. 93063
I’ll go way out on a limb here, and say that if the original poster really wants something with no sugar, but wants calories he’s got a few choices. One is to mix up a drink using maltodextrin — which is not technically a sugar. It’s a chain of sugar molecules, I think the term is a starch. Another possibility is to buy a product called Fat Free Gainers Fuel by Twinlab. This comes in various flavors and contains starchers, protein, a little fat (MCTs I think), and aspertame (Nutrasweet). It’s made to be mixed up thick, like a shake as a meal replacement or supplement, but I’ve used it thinner (around 10% in water in winter) on long bike rides as a liquid food (instead of powerbars) and it works well. I hate aspertame though, so now I buy regular (not sugar free) Gainers Fuel which has sugar. JT
Water?
: i know we’ve been through this before, but i need a recipe for a sports : drink without sugar in it. I can’t use sugar. Thanks again!
Sorry, maybe I wasn’t clear enough……. I am looking for recipes for a sports drink, using orange juice instead of sugar. I would like to use something on my longer runs, but I can’t really use sugar. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Waggoner) writes: i know we’ve been through this before, but i need a recipe for a sports drink without sugar in it. I can’t use sugar. Thanks again! Gookinaid E.R.G. (Energy Replacement Glucose) Competition flavor……5% Glucose Lemonade and Fruit Punch flavors ….<1% Fructose, 4%+ Glucose Orange Flavor…..<2% Fructose, 3%+ Glucose I sell it or I can put you in touch with Bill Gookin, the biochemist marathoner who invented it 27 years ago. I wouldn’t back pack or play Respectfully, Terry V. Waggoner, Financial Consultant-Western U.S. ‘A Mountain is Something You Don’t Wanta Mess With’ {Quote attributed to Frank Zappa – ’sanitized’ by me} Pardon me, I thought glucose was sugar. The original poster wants something without sugar. Nancy
I don’t want to sound like Mr Wizard or something but now I’m curious about why no sugar. Fruit, milk, bread and candy all has different kinds of sugar. If you want a fluid replacement drink without sugar, you’re a candidate for a trip to the drinking fountain. If taste is what you want, get ANY recipe and substitute an enjoyable quantity of nutrasweet for sugar. I think the sugar is valuable to keep you from depleting. A chewable vitamin C before running would take care of any remaining advantage of a sports drink over water. J Jay Jewitt Gulf Coast Internet Mall http://www.gcnetmall.com
Gookinaid E.R.G. (Energy Replacement Glucose) Competition flavor……5% Glucose Lemonade and Fruit Punch flavors ….<1% Fructose, 4%+ Glucose Orange Flavor…..<2% Fructose, 3%+ Glucose I sell it or I can put you in touch with Bill Gookin, the biochemist marathoner who invented it 27 years ago. I wouldn’t back pack or play Respectfully, Terry V. Waggoner
I don’t want to sound like Mr Wizard or something but now I’m curious about why no sugar. Fruit, milk, bread and candy all has different kinds of sugar. If you want a fluid replacement drink without sugar, you’re a candidate for a trip to the drinking fountain. If taste is what you want, get ANY recipe and substitute an enjoyable quantity of nutrasweet for sugar. I think the sugar is valuable to keep you from depleting. A chewable vitamin C before running would take care of any remaining advantage of a sports drink over water. J Jay Jewitt Gulf Coast Internet Mall http://www.gcnetmall.com
Jay, sorry to take additional bandwidth, but my original late-night posting on Gookinaid E.R.G. had an error. The "E" is for "Electrolyte" and not "Energy". I cancelled the article and rewrote it immediately but it must not have hit all the services. The correction is important because Gookinaid E.R.G. makes your water WORK better by eliminating lower G.I. involvement. Water gets into your system much quicker and cramping is virtually eliminated. No full feeling. My experience is over three years in the high Sierra where proper hydration is vital. The glucose is an important distinction because the common sports activity drinks use glucose *polymers* and digestion is involved. The idea that Gookin had was to replace what the body loses (electrolytes) during exercise and in the proportion lost. My ’selling’ of Gookinaid E.R.G. is a hobby and my motive is to get the best drink possible into tummies. My kids are athletes so I’ve provided the product to soccer teams, softballers, tennis teams and have given it to cramping, dehydrated hikers. There’s no real ‘big buck’ opportunity involved for me here. It’s just fun because so few people have ever heard of this product and I had the opportunity to meet Bill Gookin and thank him for his work. Soooo, if anybody wants to contact him (he’s the biochemist, not me) and get more info, call him in San Diego at 619.689.1959. Try Gookinaid E.R.G. It sells for around a buck a quart or about $10.00 for container that makes 20 2470 Stearns, ste.274 Simi Valley, CA. 93063
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Waggoner) writes: i know we’ve been through this before, but i need a recipe for a sports drink without sugar in it. I can’t use sugar. Thanks again! Gookinaid E.R.G. (Energy Replacement Glucose) Competition flavor……5% Glucose Lemonade and Fruit Punch flavors ….<1% Fructose, 4%+ Glucose Orange Flavor…..<2% Fructose, 3%+ Glucose I sell it or I can put you in touch with Bill Gookin, the biochemist marathoner who invented it 27 years ago. I wouldn’t back pack or play Respectfully, Terry V. Waggoner, Financial Consultant-Western U.S. ‘A Mountain is Something You Don’t Wanta Mess With’ {Quote attributed to Frank Zappa – ’sanitized’ by me}
Pardon me, I thought glucose was sugar. The original poster wants something without sugar. Nancy
i know we’ve been through this before, but i need a recipe for a sports drink without sugar in it. I can’t use sugar. Thanks again!
i know we’ve been through this before, but i need a recipe for a sports drink without sugar in it. I can’t use sugar. Thanks again!
Gookinaid E.R.G. (Energy Replacement Glucose) Competition flavor……5% Glucose Lemonade and Fruit Punch flavors ….<1% Fructose, 4%+ Glucose Orange Flavor…..<2% Fructose, 3%+ Glucose I sell it or I can put you in touch with Bill Gookin, the biochemist marathoner who invented it 27 years ago. I wouldn’t back pack or play Respectfully, Terry V. Waggoner, Financial Consultant-Western U.S. ‘A Mountain is Something You Don’t Wanta Mess With’ {Quote attributed to Frank Zappa – ’sanitized’ by me}
i know we’ve been through this before, but i need a recipe for a sports drink without sugar in it. I can’t use sugar. Thanks again!
Gookinaid E.R.G. (Electrolyte Replacement Glucose) Competition flavor……5% Glucose Lemonade and Fruit Punch flavors ….<1% Fructose, 4%+ Glucose Orange Flavor…..<2% Fructose, 3%+ Glucose I sell it or I can put you in touch with Bill Gookin, the biochemist marathoner who invented it 27 years ago. I wouldn’t back pack or play Respectfully, Terry V. Waggoner, Financial Consultant-Western U.S. ‘A Mountain is Something You Don’t Wanta Mess With’ {Quote attributed to Frank Zappa – ’sanitized’ by me}
Sport Triathlon Wiki » Triathlete » looking for good training watch
:I have been using the POLAR Accurex II for the past 4 years. It is a A great HRM with one HUGE disadvantage: once you start the timer you can’t check the time (unless you are wasting one of the display lines for showing time). Because of this I also wear my Timex Ironman 100. Best regards, Paul
if you want to briefly display the time, simply bring the wrist unit up close to the chest transmitter and the time will be displayed for a few seconds — /* Mike D. Kail | voice: (619) 350-3524 */ /* Sr. Unix System Administrator | fax: (619) 793-2950 */
I really like my Timex 100 lap. I’ve never had any problems with water getting in it, the indiglo really works, and you can store lots of workouts. It even records the dates (of the workouts) and it also has a memo mode, in which you can store telephone numbers, for example. The only problem is that the iron buckle gave me a skin irritation and I had to get plastic one, but the rest is just fine. Enrico Canali
Well I’ll be! Thanks for the post – I was wondering if the watch would do that – now I know. Mike in San Francisco
Also, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – once you hold the light button down for five seconds, every time you hit any button, including the lap button, the light automatically comes on. Run On! Rusty
The 100 Lap Timex Ironman is the best training watch I’ve ever used. It’s nice to be able to split every mile in a marathon, or even all your splits in an Ironman. I haven’t had any water problems and I use it in the pool all the time. Chase
I have been using the POLAR Accurex II for the past 4 years. It is a heart rate monitor as well as a great training watch. You can record split times, it has a stopwatch. It can also display your average heart rate during a training run and can store information of up to 8 different runs.. It provides an excellent way to monitor your exertion level. If you are not familiar with heart rate monitors, I can give you more
:I have been using the POLAR Accurex II for the past 4 years. It is a A great HRM with one HUGE disadvantage: once you start the timer you can’t check the time (unless you are wasting one of the display lines for showing time). Because of this I also wear my Timex Ironman 100. Best regards, Paul
: I am thinking of buying a watch with features useful for running and : biking, i.e. lots of splits, countdown, etc. Can anyone recommend a : model? What brands should I consider (Timex, Casio, ???). : Any help would be appreciated. : Matthias. : I haven’t had much luck with Casio watches… I’ve gotta reply to this. I’ve had my current Casio SBD-30W for so long I can’t remember the previous watch I had; it’s probably been 10 years. 30 lap memories that can be from different days and which you can scroll through forward or backwards, countdown alarm that wraps or not, 10 target times, three alarms, easy to use. I’m dreading the day it dies. I have been through 2 or 3 batteries and 3 or 4 bands. The bad news is that the particular version I have doesn’t seem to exist any more and the newer Casios don’t seem as good. About 4 or 5 years ago I got a Timex Ironman 8 lap memory for my wife, and it was terrible compared to the Casio. I don’t remember all the problems with it, but it was so bad I took it back right after I played with it for the first time and and tried to forget that watch as fast as possible. From previous posts, it sounds like the newer 50 lap Timexes (Timexi?) have likely solved those problems. I personally think the important features are 30 or more memory locations (for every mile in a marathon, every lap of a 10k, or every quarter of a speed workout), the target time feature (so you don’t need to look at your watch to see if you’re on pace, particularly in track workouts), the wrapping countdown alarm (for doing intervals by time onthe roads), and multiple alarms (for everyday life). -pfrench
I am thinking of buying a watch with features useful for running and biking, i.e. lots of splits, countdown, etc. Can anyone recommend a model? What brands should I consider (Timex, Casio, ???). Any help would be appreciated. Matthias. — Matthias Wenzel
first battery lasted over 6 years, but the bands suck! I would still have it but a football hit the (2nd, worn) band and the watch convienently fell right under my foot, breaking the crystal. I was going to settle for another 8-lap, but a friend told me Mervin’s (?) sold them cheap, and he was right. I got the 100-lap for $34. One of the big advantages to the 100-lap is that the others have two buttons on the lower front (as you look at it) while the 100-lap has only one big lap button. It is much easier to hit, and I don’t have to spend time feeling around for the right button. The lap segment memory also keeps dates, so I won’t forget which day I did what, and I don’t have to write it down every day (laziness, the mother of innovation!). Also, once you hold the light button down for five seconds, every time you hit any button, including the lap button, the light automatically comes on. Run On! Rusty
I have the Timex Ironman 100 laps. I like it except for one thing… It it NOT waterproof. In fact like most watches (except the scuba diving ones) it you use the buttons to take splits while you are in the water, you are hosed. The water gets in and your watch is worthless. It is my second one that I am using (the first one has been nicely replaced by timex). In fact I am considering bying a scuba diving watch that I can use in the water without the fear of having to replace it… A part from that, it is an excellent watch. 100laps, 5 alarms (one to wake up and the rest to remind you that you have to train) memo (for your partnair’s phone #) Chono, timer… really a neat watch. — fabien <snip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve had several different models of Casios, and I like my current Timex Ironman better. The "indiglo" light is very cool, especially during morning workouts when it’s still dark outside. Mine has a feature that I really like that isn’t available on all the indiglo models. When you press the light button and hold it for 5 seconds, the watch goes into a mode that causes the light to come on and hold for a few seconds any time you press any button. I was using it just this morning in fact, to time some sprints my swimmers were doing. There’s at least one more model above mine that has WAY more features – almost like a diary! I think it will remember what date you did certain splits on, for instance. 100 lap memory? Too many features that I didn’t need (but a triathlete might want), and too much money. <snip Chip Zempel
I use the Timex Ironman 8-lap memory. I used to use the 8 lap function when I swam, but for running, I just keep track of elapsed time versus running time. I’ve had this watch for about 4 years now; it would be cool to get the new one that turns on the Indiglo with each button push. That would be so helpful in the morning! — Anita — — <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < Domain Solutions Corporation 408.453.7092 Fax: 408.453.5426 < < San Jose, CA, USA "This isn’t fantasy, it’s theatre!" Deanna Troi <
I have only used Casio 30 lap watches for the past 10 years (this is my 2nd watch now)- they are great and do not have the annoying double-click needed to do a lap split like the Timex watches do- The TImex 100-lap did away with the double click to do a lap split – single click to a large center button.
I always set the hourly alarm on my Ironman, which has the side-effect of making the mode switch beep when used, and then to do a split I do "click", and cycle the mode (4 beeps, or 3 to go back to the "safe" clock mode). Adrian Pepper.
I am thinking of buying a watch with features useful for running and biking, i.e. lots of splits, countdown, etc. Can anyone recommend a model? What brands should I consider (Timex, Casio, ???). Any help would be appreciated. Matthias. — Matthias Wenzel
If you can afford it, I’d go ahead and get something like the Polar Accurex NV. You’ve now got the Indiglo for night training, lap intervals, countdown timer, AND you’ve got heartrate monitor for optimum training. I never leave home without mine! Just my 2 cents worth…..
I am thinking of buying a watch with features useful for running and biking, i.e. lots of splits, countdown, etc. Can anyone recommend a model? What brands should I consider (Timex, Casio, ???). Any help would be appreciated. Matthias. — Matthias Wenzel
I have an 8 lap Indiglo Timex Ironman watch. It works well for racing to get swim bike and run splits. I also store transition splits. the 8 laps are fine. I find for track workouts though I’d like more laps rather than just the last 8 (4 intervals and 4 rests). I used to have a Casio that had larger numbers so was easier to read. The location of the numbers, close to teh face and positioning withing the case meant that it was really easy to read splits while pushing of the wall when swimming. The timex is nigh on impossible to do the same. Now I use the pace clock. THe Casio also had a pulse monitor function which wasn’t as good as a real HRM, it was nice to have. It required putting ones thumb over a sensing pad. It wasn’t really accurate below about 80BPM but when needed, above that rate it worked very well. I would use it to make sure my heart rate wouldn’t drop too low between intervals. It was also good for checking max rate after intervals (I once saw 193 after a hard 400m session!) It also worked well while on the bie in teh aero position. I saw 185 on the bike before the battery died. I now have 5 perfectly good watches with dead batteries. I should skip a wourkout sometime and get new batteries. Nah. If you are agear hog (like me) I’d suggest the Timex Ironman 100 lapper. It’s a little big. The 8 lapper is good too. — Marcus Perry "TriDork" ** Give whenever you CAN…..Take only when you HAVE to. ** ** M. Perry circa 1980 **
I am thinking of buying a watch with features useful for running and biking, i.e. lots of splits, countdown, etc. Can anyone recommend a model? What brands should I consider (Timex, Casio, ???). Any help would be appreciated. Matthias. — Matthias Wenzel
deserve the support. I’ve had all their models and the latest 100 lap is the most advanced and is indeed bullet proof. Cheers, Bernie Sher
I have only used Casio 30 lap watches for the past 10 years (this is my 2nd watch now)- they are great and do not have the annoying double-click needed to do a lap split like the Timex watches do-
The TImex 100-lap did away with the double click to do a lap split – single click to a large center button. George
I have only used Casio 30 lap watches for the past 10 years (this is my 2nd watch now)- they are great and do not have the annoying double-click needed to do a lap split like the Timex watches do- it holds 30 splits and stores them by date too. But I do wish I had the Indiglo light though…
I have also used these watches for at least a decade and although they can be somewhat hard to find retail they can be cheaply mail ordered (less than $25). See the back of a Runner’s World for an ad. I am thinking of buying a watch with features useful for running and biking, i.e. lots of splits, countdown, etc. Can anyone recommend a model? What brands should I consider (Timex, Casio, ???). Any help would be appreciated. Matthias. — Matthias Wenzel
– Bob Sweeney I like my beer dark and bitter–like my personality.
I have only used Casio 30 lap watches for the past 10 years (this is my 2nd watch now)- they are great and do not have the annoying double-click needed to do a lap split like the Timex watches do- it holds 30 splits and stores them by date too. But I do wish I had the Indiglo light though… I am thinking of buying a watch with features useful for running and biking, i.e. lots of splits, countdown, etc. Can anyone recommend a model? What brands should I consider (Timex, Casio, ???). Any help would be appreciated. Matthias. — Matthias Wenzel
I am thinking of buying a watch with features useful for running and biking, i.e. lots of splits, countdown, etc. Can anyone recommend a model? What brands should I consider (Timex, Casio, ???). Any help would be appreciated. Matthias.
I haven’t had much luck with Casio watches. It always seems to be the more features the watch has the shorter time it lasts before something goes wrong with it. Two I’ve purchased in the past have only lasted about 18 months before needing repair, and after repair never seemed to work as well again, and were subsequently binned. I haven’t, as yet, tried Timex. — Peter Elsden Runaid Enterprises www : http://www.runaid.demon.co.uk UK
I am thinking of buying a watch with features useful for running and biking, i.e. lots of splits, countdown, etc. Can anyone recommend a model? What brands should I consider (Timex, Casio, ???).
The Timex Ironman 100-lap has no equal. Variable countdown timer, all the splits you need, two time zones, 5 alarm clocks, even a memo function although that feature is a little tough to use. I use the variable countdown timer at the track as follows: if I’m running quarters at 84 going off on 2:30, I set it for :42 (so it goes off at the halfway point), :42 (end of the lap), :56 (for a 10-second warning before go), and :10. It then repeats itself, so I don’t have to touch the watch for the whole workout after setting it up. Although it is advertised mail-order for $54.95, I got mine at Kmart for $39. I just checked last week to get one for my brother and it is still $39. George
I am thinking of buying a watch with features useful for running and biking, i.e. lots of splits, countdown, etc. Can anyone recommend a model? What brands should I consider (Timex, Casio, ???). Any help would be appreciated. Matthias. — Matthias Wenzel
I am thinking of buying a watch with features useful for running and biking, i.e. lots of splits, countdown, etc. Can anyone recommend a model? What brands should I consider (Timex, Casio, ???). Any help would be appreciated. Matthias. — Matthias Wenzel
I’ve had two Timex watches. My current one, the IRONMAN version has served me well for 5 years now. My other one also was working well after 5 years – my newer one was a gift and I’ve felt obliged to wear it. The bands sometimes wear-out, but heck, for $30 or $40 bucks it is well worth it! Tod Meinke
I am thinking of buying a watch with features useful for running and biking, i.e. lots of splits, countdown, etc. Can anyone recommend a model? What brands should I consider (Timex, Casio, ???). Any help would be appreciated. Matthias. — Matthias Wenzel
I’ve had several different models of Casios, and I like my current Timex Ironman better. The "indiglo" light is very cool, especially during morning workouts when it’s still dark outside. Mine has a feature that I really like that isn’t available on all the indiglo models. When you press the light button and hold it for 5 seconds, the watch goes into a mode that causes the light to come on and hold for a few seconds any time you press any button. I was using it just this morning in fact, to time some sprints my swimmers were doing. Someone else mentioned that the bands wear out, but replacement bands and crystals are available from Timex at reasonable prices. It feels much sturdier, built to last, than the Casios, which seem more like a "disposable." Mine is the 50 lap memory model, which I chose because I need to be able to get at least 16 splits for swimmers doing the 1650/1500. (Most models only have 8 lap memory.) It also has a mode that displays lap and cumulative splits – none of the Casio models offer that feature as far as I know. There’s at least one more model above mine that has WAY more features – almost like a diary! I think it will remember what date you did certain splits on, for instance. 100 lap memory? Too many features that I didn’t need (but a triathlete might want), and too much money. (You may have guessed by now that I’m a swim coach, not a triathlete.) I hope this helps. (P.S. Check around all the super-discount places, but also your local runner/triathlete stores. I bought a ladies model Timex for my daughter at my local Fleet Feet. With a coach’s discount, the price was very close to what Best Products wanted, and I was happy to pay the extra dollar or two to a local business that helps support our sports!) Chip Zempel
Sport Triathlon Wiki » Triathlete » BALANCCE DIET FOR VEGETARIAN TRIATHETE
You need a more balanced diet – more protein and especially FAT. Make sure you get plenty of olive oil, peanut butter, etc. for fat, and tofu beans, etc for protein. Pure carbs, in my experience, will not support up to 4 hours of daily training. Check out the book "THe Zone" by Dr. Barry Sears. Todd N. Kenyon """""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""
As a novice triathlete I would like to increase my daily aerobic training from 2hours towards 3& 4 hours range hoping it will be enough to get me in shape to qualify for the Ironman. As a vegetarian ,not I would like to avoid developping chronic un balanced diet And not losing toomuch weight. Any one with advice or where to look for answers. My appetite seems to increase and I begin to eat lots of carbonhydrates which seems to transform in to air ,for exemple after eating around 400g of rice I begin to feel starved 4 HOURS LATER. Should I load calories with honey for easy digestion? Also when I eat granola bars or peanut butter sandwiches it gives me gases , What should I do Would a steak a week help me avoid iron or other deficiencies
: You need a more balanced diet – more protein and especially FAT. : Make sure you : get plenty of olive oil, peanut butter, etc. for fat, and tofu beans, : Todd N. Kenyon : Yeah, dude… and don’t forget the deep fried lard covered mayonnaise balls! : No food is pure carbs todd; I run marathons (2:53 last sunday – five : minute pr), and a lowfat diet without olive oil, peanut butter, etc : gets me through just fine. Nimbus, though I as well am (currently) on the high-carb, low-fat plan, I feel that Todd presents a good, and valid point. I am now training with a few guys on the PR*Bar plan and they swear by it. At my current level of running 130-140 miles/week, I am _constantly_ eating carbos, and find that if I ingest *some* fat (like peanut butter, etc…) I’m MUCH more satisfied, and my energy levels are higher. I’m going to investigate this 40/30/30 thing further… —
Sport Triathlon Wiki » Triathlon Training » advice: new bike
Get one that looks cool. Eric
<snippage on componentry… As far as components goes, Shimano Ultegra has a good value for racing (although I do own mostly Dura-Ace). I’ve heard good things about the new Campanolo components, but there product-line now changes as much as Shimano– so I’m not current.
Campy’s new stuff is great. And while the lines change, measurements (ID and OD’s on chainrings, for example) are fairly constant, and unlike Shimano, parts are available although more costly. But IMHO they last much longer. The DA stuff is very good though; the other crap that Shimano produces…. well. Cheaper Campy is better. Tom
i am planning to purchase a new bike for training & racing- 30k or 40k in the spring 90k in the fall. western PA, so some hills. I am looking for advice- should i buy a triathlon bike or conventional road bike. What are the advantages/disadvantages of both. they both seem comfortable on test rides. are tri bikes for real or just a fad. all opinions appreciated. thanks
Good question — I guess that depends on how much you want to spend. Except for those bikes on the edges of bikedom, most road bikes are actually pretty applicable to the task you want fulfilled. On a 30 – 40k ride aluminum is probably the best bet — its affordable, light, and very stiff, so you won’t get much flex, and its a popular material used by a wide range of brandnames. Next choice is 700c or 26 in size wheels. Much as 26 inch wheels are cool as hell, they can be a pain to get spare parts for, and can be much more expensive frame- and bike sets. So if cost is an issue, get 700c size wheels. At this point in time, you will not have chosen a specific tri- bike or road bike set up. This is just a standard way of choosing a bike for your distance and price range. After this, the rest is straightforward — get a good quality bike with shimano components that FITS. This is the most important part of buying a bike. If it doesn’t fit, its a waste of time. I discovered this the hard way — bought a Cannondale critirium set up — perfect for triathlon — for $300 !! Unfortunately, it doesn’t fit worth a damn. Its way too big. So learn the easy way — from other people’s mistakes. Having chosen a wheel size and a frame material, go to several bike shops, get size for a bike by someone who knows their stuff, and try out for comfort a bunch of different makes. Good choices include Bianchi, Cannondale and Raleigh at the lower price range ($500 — $850 new) and Cannondale, Softride, Quintana Roo and Trek at the top end range. A great compromise is the Cannondale r500 — it has a pretty tight geometry, but not so much as to be uncomftable, and you can get the bikeshop to equip it with aerobars, shifters and wheels if you so desire to give it the full tri-equip update. Good luck, and good riding. Matt
i am planning to purchase a new bike for training & racing- 30k or 40k in the spring 90k in the fall. western PA, so some hills. I am looking for advice- should i buy a triathlon bike or conventional road bike. What are the advantages/disadvantages of both. they both seem comfortable on test rides. are tri bikes for real or just a fad. all opinions appreciated. thanks
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Newsgroups: Path: crash!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!pgh!ip64 Summary: should i buy a "triathlon" bike or conventional road bike X-Nntp-Posting-Host: ip64.nauticom.net Organization: Nauticom! Internet Access Provider X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #3 Lines: 5 i am planning to purchase a new bike for training & racing- 30k or 40k in the spring 90k in the fall. western PA, so some hills. I am looking for advice- should i buy a triathlon bike or conventional road bike. What are the advantages/disadvantages of both. they both seem comfortable on test rides. are tri bikes for real or just a fad. all opinions appreciated. thanks
If you train and race mostly on flat to rolling courses, I think the "tri bikes" (forward seat angles etc.) are worth a serious look. They are more comfortable to ride in the aero position. If you’re a non-ITU triathlete, you will probably spend considerable time in that position, so this is something to consider. I’d get it with aeroshifting, too. However, I think that a light standard road bike with STI is better for serious climbing and general riding. I use my tri bike with TTbars, Gripshift etc. , 80 percent of the time and my old road bike (retrofitted with aerobars etc) for long hilly rides. I’d look for a nice "light" frame and good solid componetry. I know weight isn’t everything, but I like to keep the complete bike’s weight at no more than about 20 pounds.
If you train and race mostly on flat to rolling courses, I think the "tri bikes" (forward seat angles etc.) are worth a serious look. … However, I think that a light standard road bike with STI is better for serious climbing and general riding. I use my tri bike with TTbars, Gripshift etc. , 80 percent of the time and my old road bike (retrofitted with aerobars etc) for long hilly rides.
IMHO, switching bikes between courses is not good for the average rider. It keeps you from *learning* how to climb on your tri bike and can also prove a psychological disadvantage when you find yourself in a race on a steep grade with you tri bike. Take mtn. biking for instance. Everything you’ve learned about climbing on the road is completely reversed. You need to be somewhat forward to keep your front wheel on the dirt. This is a good way to teach yourself how to climb with a forward position road bike. As to what bike to buy… If you are going to be riding in the aerobars (either recreationally or racing) a lot get a tri bike since they were designed around aerobars. If you are going to do a lot of group/pack rides, then get a road bike. I personally think the Al. framesets offer a good bang-for-the-buck. My road bike, mtn. bike and tri bike are all aluminium (all by different manufacturers). As far as components goes, Shimano Ultegra has a good value for racing (although I do own mostly Dura-Ace). I’ve heard good things about the new Campanolo components, but there product-line now changes as much as Shimano– so I’m not current. One last bit of advice, I would get a sealed bottom bracket, sealed headset and sealed hubs on my wheels. This makes a good portion of your bike nearly maintainence free. Your local dealer can fill you in on this… Pat W.Patrick Brug, Ph.D. _- -_ Los Alamos National Lab -__ __- / cis: 72410,3372 /
Sport Triathlon Wiki » Triathlon » QRoo Web site FINALLY up
http://www.webcom.com/~sp/qroo/index.html Hey, this is pretty cool. Good job. Nice street. Clean. No trash. You’re going to have fun adding to this.
Yes, it is a good job: but it looks a bit like the triathlon version of MS BOB! <g Still, well done – a good model for others! Tom Ruta
Summa WEBologica is finally publish-able. Notice I did not say finished. But their is enough stuff there to make it readable. You might find a closeout or two. http://www.webcom.com/~sp/qroo/index.html QRman
Congratulations! It’s a wonderful web. I was able to get it by clicking from r.s.t. in netscape, but I couldn’t get it by using "open’ and typing the above numbers. It was either a "refused by host" or "unable to locate host" response. I think the map is very useful and the links to other sites is the most widespread and useful one for me. Ruth Kazez
: : Summa WEBologica is finally publish-able. Notice I did not say finished. : But their is enough stuff there to make it readable. You might find a : closeout or two. : : http://www.webcom.com/~sp/qroo/index.html : : QRman : Congratulations! It’s a wonderful web. I was able to get it by clicking : from r.s.t. in netscape, but I couldn’t get it by using "open’ and typing : the above numbers. It was either a "refused by host" or "unable to locate : host" response. I think the map is very useful and the links to other sites : is the most widespread and useful one for me. Webcom is apparently doing some maintenance to their server – please try again later if you get the ‘refused by host’ message. -Mike
Summa WEBologica is finally publish-able. Notice I did not say finished. But their is enough stuff there to make it readable. You might find a closeout or two. http://www.webcom.com/~sp/qroo/index.html QRman
Hey, this is pretty cool. Good job. Nice street. Clean. No trash. You’re going to have fun adding to this. BTW, have you read Snow Crash?
Sport Triathlon Wiki » Triathlon Training » Marathon on 12 March?
The Subject line says it all. I have been training for the Napa Valley Marathon on 5 March, only to find that I have to travel to the far east that weekend on business. I am in great shape, and want to qualify for Boston ‘96 this spring. I have already committed to competing in a Powerman Duathlon qualifier on 2 April in Holland, and any later will impact my triathlon season. Does anyone know of a marathon in the US on 11 or 12 March? Thanks. ******* / / ******* Hewlett-Packard Laboratories * **** / __ // __ / **** phone: +1 415-857-8664 * **** / / / // /_/ / **** fax: +1 415-852-8030 * **** /_/ /_// ____/ **** =o * ***** / / ***** ___^o_ _=o <| * ******* / / ******* _ <_ *
I think (but am not 100% sure) that the Hyannis marathon (on Cape Cod, MA) is that weekend — Roland
1, Hyannis, Hyannis, Mass. 5087786965 2. Maui, Kahalui, Hawaii 808 8716441 3. Mendocino Trail, Russian Gulch State Park, Stinson, Beach, CA 415 8681829
The Subject line says it all. I have been training for the Napa Valley Marathon on 5 March, only to find that I have to travel to the far east that weekend on business. I am in great shape, and want to qualify for Boston ‘96 this spring. I have already committed to competing in a Powerman Duathlon qualifier on 2 April in Holland, and any later will impact my triathlon season. Does anyone know of a marathon in the US on 11 or 12 March? Thanks.
You can stop off in Hawaii on your way back for the Maui Marathon on 3-12-95. —
Sport Triathlon Wiki » Ironman Triathlon » Cannondale debate
I agree with everything in the original post but I think one thing was left out which should have been mentioned under number 4: 4. Less aero drag with smaller wheels due to smaller frontal area.
Smaller wheels spin faster and thus cause more turbulence which increases drag. However, I do not know which is greater: the drop in drag due to the decreased frontal area or the increase in drag due to the faster wheel rotation. Lance Muzslay
What is the general consensus on width of tire? What kind of a difference does it make on overall performance? What do the pros use? I train and race on 700×18’s for no particular reason except that it seemed to make sense to choose a faster tire (less rolling resistance) if the price was the same. But now that I think about it, I get quite a few more "snake bites" in my tubes than my training pals – would the skinny tires contribute to it?
Wider tires definitely reduce the frequency of pinch flats. Especially for heavier riders such as I (195 lbs.) skinny tires can be a real pain. I see no point in using tires which might save you a few seconds, but could also cost you 15 minutes, by increasing the probability of getting a flat. In a half-ironman called Mike & Rob’s Most Excellent Triathlon a week and a half ago, one guy I passed made a joke about my 700×35 tires, but at least I was not among the many people fixing flats along the course. I will admit that 700×35 is going a bit over-board, but I also use my bike for commuting with lots of junk in the panniers, and for schlepping my 2 year old around on a bike seat, and so I have lots of weight on my back wheel quite often. The speed increase due to skinny tires is often over-stated because people fail to recalibrate their speedometers. Big tires produce a larger wheel circumference, and so one must not simply compare wheel revolutions per minute with wide and narrow tires; wide tires increase the effective gear ratio for the same ring/cog combination. I also dread taking off my tires when I get a flat – are thicker tires easier to deal with?
Perhaps a bit, but my tires have wire, not Kevlar beads, and so I cannot comment on the lighter weight tires. If you dread changing a clincher, then forget about tublars! I had a bike with those, but quit using those wheels. I think they are an expensive pain in the neck, and would only use them if I were being followed by a support vehicle which would instantly hand me a new wheel after every flat. I do not expect to find myself in this position any time soon. Happy pedaling (and swimming and running),
Just felt this discussion wouldn’t be complete without my $0.02 worth. I ride Trek aluminum bikes right now (an older 1200 and a newer 1400). My roommate has an older Cannondale with the big oversized tubes. I have ridden this bicycle a few times, and in one word, it is STIFF. However, my 1400 is noticeably stiffer than the 1200 with the same size tubes (different alloys I hear). It is my understanding that wheels have much to with ride quality. Comments anybody? Now to compare the Treks to the ‘dale… My roommate and I did a quasi-scientific flex test. We put each bike on windtrainer and roughly measured the sway of the bottom bracket (which nearly gave me a heart attack !!!). The Cannondale was noticeably less than the Treks (as expected). So much for science. I believe the oversized tubes reduce this wasteful bottom bracket sway. But side to side sway is not much of a factor in ride quality/frame shock absorption. Think about it… I believe frame geometry directly influences bike handling, as the angles of the loads are directed differently to the wheels on differently angled bikes. Further more, a bike frame does flex and bend under load (see above). These flexings and movements are directly related to both material and geometry. Furthermore, ride quality is directly influenced by frame stiffness/material. Read recent issues of Inside Triathlon to verify. Finally, if one bike works for you – ride it. If it doesn’t, then find one that does. This is all supposed to be fun, right? Rolf Arands
It is my understanding that wheels have much to with ride quality. Comments anybody?
More tires than wheels. Put 700X25’s on a ‘dale and you’ll have a great riding comfortable bike that is light, strong, and corners like a dream. Very few of us are fast enough for the slight increase in width to make any difference in times. You’ll have less flats too! -Terry
… Put 700X25’s on a ‘dale and you’ll have a great riding comfortable bike that is light, strong, and corners like a dream. Very few of us are fast enough… to make any difference in times. … less flats too!
What is the general consensus on width of tire? What kind of a difference does it make on overall performance? What do the pros use? I train and race on 700×18’s for no particular reason except that it seemed to make sense to choose a faster tire (less rolling resistance) if the price was the same. But now that I think about it, I get quite a few more "snake bites" in my tubes than my training pals – would the skinny tires contribute to it? I also dread taking off my tires when I get a flat – are thicker tires easier to deal with? BTW, I plan on NEVER riding in a crit. While I’m on the subject of tires, one more question. How do clinchers compare with tubulars? What would the difference be between say, a Continental Grand Prix clincher with 63 gram tubes in them and a Cont. Gr. Prix Tubular in terms of performance? Thanks. Jeff.
What is the general consensus on width of tire? What kind of a difference does it make on overall performance? What do the pros use? I train and race on 700×18’s for no particular reason except that it seemed to make sense to choose a faster tire (less rolling resistance) if the price was the same.
I train on "fat" therefore more reliable tires. A skinny tire will have more snakebites than a fat one. Also, more beefy tires are less prone to puncture. Recent studies have shown that a tire 1mm-2mm wider than the rim is best for aerodynamics (gives the wheel a "teardrop" shape). I, personally, never mess with tubulars. A good clincher/tube combo these days is nearly as light and clinchers don’t roll off rims. Bikies claim that a tubular handles much better but in a TT who really cares? — LSC (aka Larry Chapman) (303) 229-3117
Recent studies have shown that a tire 1mm-2mm wider than the rim is best for aerodynamics (gives the wheel a "teardrop" shape). Does this take into consideration rolling resistance? Or is the point that as speed increases, wind resistance increases (a lot) while rolling resistance stays the same (or possibly decreases). So the teardrop shape of the tire/wheel more than dwarf any effect that rolling resistance has on speed. Is that why you see faster people riding 26" wheels more often than slower people – the help of a smaller wheel profile offsets the increased rolling resistance that a more curved (26") wheel gives at some threshold speed. I wonder what the threshold is. 20 mph? 25 mph? Anyone?
From what I understand there are several things that occur when one uses the smaller 26" wheels vs the more common 700c/27" wheel. 1. Most significantly, the rotating moment of inertia is proportional to the square of the radius of the wheel. The equation is something like I = m* r^2 where m is the wheel mass and r is the radius. Since the acceleration of a wheel under a given torque is inversely proportional to I (high I – low acceleration), one wants to reduce I. Reducing wheel weight is one way, reducing the radius is another and much more effective in my opinion. Smaller diameter wheels do both. At **PERFECTLY** steady speed on a flat course the mass of the bike/rider has no effect on power output other than affecting rolling resistance. Thus at steady speed on a flat course one’s output is a direct function of aero drag + rolling friction + mechanical drag. In most bikes races one is never truly at steady speed where this moment of inertia stuff is irrelevant. One is constantly fluctuating in speed, going up a little hill, down a hill, around a corner, etc. These are accelerations where this stuff matters. In hill climbs a big difference I would expect (I have never used these wheels, just "analyzed" them). Thus one can apply less torque to the smaller wheels and maintain the same acceleration. Essentially one’s power output is reduced at a given speed. More energy for the run??? 2. Shorter spokes flex less under torque. Thus, better power transfer to the pavement occurs with smaller diameter wheels. As an aside, I have also noted this with my Cx wheels, which have shortened bladed spokes. 3. Higher rolling resistance of smaller diameter wheel is due to the sharper angle of contact of the smaller rim (**I think**). However, from what I have read this is negligible compared to other factors. 4. Less aero drag with smaller wheels due to smaller frontal area. 5. Regearing of the bike is necessary to maintain ratios. Larger chain rings are usually used, but I will leave this up to someone who is more familiar with gear-inches or whatever they use for this. This is not a big factor IMHO. As far as teardrop shape effects go, I do not think that these are terribly large **WHEN COMPARED TO THESE EFFECTS ABOVE**. Think about the size of the two different sized wheels relative to the rest of the bike and rider. The air drag difference will be small, IMHO. These are my thoughts anyway. After writing them, I am almost convinced to invest in a smaller wheeled bike!!! Rolf Arands
Recent studies have shown that a tire 1mm-2mm wider than the rim is best for aerodynamics (gives the wheel a "teardrop" shape).
Does this take into consideration rolling resistance? Or is the point that as speed increases, wind resistance increases (a lot) while rolling resistance stays the same (or possibly decreases). So the teardrop shape of the tire/wheel more than dwarf any effect that rolling resistance has on speed. Is that why you see faster people riding 26" wheels more often than slower people – the help of a smaller wheel profile offsets the increased rolling resistance that a more curved (26") wheel gives at some threshold speed. I wonder what the threshold is. 20 mph? 25 mph? Anyone?